Quote:
Originally Posted by jaros44sr
GM, I am in the same situation. I like the looks of 35's but can't fit them under my truck without body damage and the fear of snapping an axle. Unsafe both ways. 35's seem to be proportional to the bulk of the truck...
Using a lever and a fulcrum as an example, the further out the lever you move the easier it is to lift. You could lift something in closer on the lever, but it would take more force, possilby snapping the lever (or axle). Could we take this logic and apply it to the ring and pinion? If I were to run 4.56 gears would that lessen the force on the axles, or is it just the mass, wt. of the wheel tire combo that is the culprit. Seems to me, you wouldn't be applying as much force with the lower gears.
I'll probably get flamed for saying this, but there has to be a way I can safely run 35's on the street w/4" of lift and not cause anyone harm, my truck and self included. I just don't know what is snapping axles
I like the way yours looks with the 33's...
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Generally, 35's are considered to be the top end of what is "safe" on 1/2 ton axles. Unless you are going to be wheeling it hard, your chances of snapping an axle are fairly slim. The gearing probably won't change the strain on the axles, but the strain on the engine. 4.10's are about right for 35's on the street. A 4" lift works with 35's but you may have rubbing if you wheel it. 6" lift is better. Of course, wheel size and off-set come into play on clearances and strain on the axles.
I've had two K5's with 35" tires on 1/2 ton suspension. One had a 4" lift the other a 6". The truck with the smaller lift was running 3.73 gears, which wasn't quite low enough. The other was running 4.10's which gave it a lot more get-up-and-go.