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Old 01-20-2003, 11:05 AM   #10
jmil1974
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Friendswood, TX
Posts: 700
For Pete's sakes, get a separate amp for your speakers. As mentioned, it's almost always distortion that kills speaks, not power. RMS watts are key, not max. RMS continuous, max is peak. Get clean power, as much as you can swing. More power is better here, big time. 6x9s are a good compromise speaker. A nice set with a good amp does a good job. Optimally, you want a set of 2 or 3 way COMPONENT speakers. I would do 3 way components from Boston or Focal. I like Polk too but forget if they have 3 ways component sets or not.
6.5 in front of door, 4 in kick, and tweet under vent window
and one sub under/behind seat.
Get a stout 4 channel (like 4x100 RMS) from xtant, a/d/s, PPI, Alpine, or even Fosgate or MTX. Bridge the 2 rear channels to your sub, which will give you 300-400 watts RMS to your sub (depending on brand) which is plenty for nice loud quality sound. A good sub is important - Boston, JL Audio, Polk, or even Fosgate is OK here too. Match the model sub to the amp, most should tell you the RMS and Max ratings. A single 10 or 12 is great, depending on space. Anyone who tells you you need 2 subs has never heard a proper single sub setup. Add an eq, like the Kenwood 4042 or 6042 and you'll be amazed how good it sounds. If you ebay it, you can get out for well under a grand, maybe even around $500 if you go 2 way components and Fosgate stuff.
DO spend the dough on wiring, bigger is always better for quality and safety and connections have been covered. Count on 50-100 bones for good wiring and cabling and for well under a grand you'll have an AWESOME setup that anyone will love to listen to any kind of music.
Here's how I would break it down
EQ $50
Sub (+box?) $100
Amp $200
Speakers $200
Wiring, misc $100

Good luck!
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