^ I think there's already companies making half doors.
Try US Body and similar companies for them.
anyways, on the fenders I've done very little on the fenders
but I got the thing all set up to go now
mounted the fender and cut off lip in an appropriate position and started to fill the gap to make a working surface.
The lip is shimmed so the profile jig runs along it level, and the fender is mounted to the table. I have to be able to take the fender off the table once 1 section of the mold is complete, but until then it needs to be solid so I can pull the profile and do the block sanding etc. I used clamps and boards where the lower part of the fender sits off the table, but the top part of the fender(inner support) was tough to get to, even with that lip cut off 2.5", so I had to use a few pieces of scrap to screw the fender down to the table, Scrap wood screwed from inside of fender, then same piece screwed to the table.
I did mark with two black lines on the table where the two crucial screws are to releasing it from the table, you can see them in the pics. at the very worst, I'll have to go under the table and drill/cut out the screws.
but anyways, a few more pics:
all glued up and waiting for some fiberglass
here it is glassed and trimmed up
and here's a pic of the profile gauge in place.
The reason it's glassed and trimmed up is so I can do my work in steps. The fiberglass will give the new plaster profile and the mold a 'method' of staying firmly in position on the fender while I work it and when I have to move it. I'll pull the profile, and then block and primer/paint as much of the fender as I can get to. Then I'll do the lay up for the wheel well section of the mold. Then I'm going to have to take the fender off the table to do the other two sections. The two screws that are holding the top of the fender down are in at an angle, and I should be able to back them out just under the edge of the cut fiberglass, and the foam and any plaster will cut away like butter. So that's the reason for the foam and fiberglass.
Also, now that jig will probably make more sense to anyone wondering. the lower corner is 2" in from the edge of the jig. The jig will run along the stock fender, at a lower height and the new wheel-well will be exactly 2" larger than stock, with a stock shape in both lip edge, and opening shape. The opening isn't a perfect circle, and also not a ellipse(oval). If it was I could have used a circle/oval jig. The stock fender has more of a tear-drop shape, so following the stock opening is the best means of reproduction imho. But mounting the stock lip on the table just right was actually a pita. if you look at a fender on your truck from the front, you'll see the lip curves towards the top of the truck and the ground. I had to mount and shim the old fender lip just right, so the height was correct from one corner, to the top, down to the other corner. Good the thing lip cut off the fender is really flexible... But I got it mounted firmly and it runs along the stock lip and newly glassed work surface really nicely.
Between the shape of the opening and the profile of the lip, I think this will give the best results. I guess we'll all find out in due time.