View Single Post
Old 01-20-2009, 02:02 AM   #63
gavotter333
Registered User
 
gavotter333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: New York NY
Posts: 55
Re: Freshly rebuilt 350 burning oil and tappet noise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 71 super View Post
Is cam solid or hyd? It is possible that you have bent a push rod causing the rocker not to move- especially if the motor has turnd some rpm and needed readjustment. Crank the motor and listen to the noise using a piece of broom handle or water hose or a engine stethoscope. If you have a timing light and the hose etc. you can quickly isolate if it is in fact valve train or lower end. With light hooked up and working listen to noise with hose etc. if noise is 2x as fast as crank rotation it is valve train, if it is in time with the flash it is lower end problems. Valve train issues will create the rough running you have described and if one push rod is bent chances are other are as well, if they are not hardened they will break and can fall into the lower half causing other problems. As for the oil consumption, what type of rings did the guy use in the engine? If he used chrome moly, they can be a bi--h to seat sometimes, in the shop I used to work at in a past life a set was installed in a 390 ford engine that never did seat properly, ended up going to standard iron to get the oil consumption to stop. 5 grand seems like alot of money for and engine especially after seeing no roller rockers and what looks like regular proformer intake. What has been done to the engine to justify the cost- I realize port and polish stainless valves but goods heads run about $1200-1800 where did they spend the rest? Not trying to be mean or nosey but seems high for what I see in your pics,it would also help to know cam specs.
Thank you for the suggestions for this. These are things that I can do tomorrow and see what I find. Ill let you all know what I find.

The rods are hardened to my knowledge and of what I can decipher from the receipt they are cs-663p-10

SToCk roD & MaIN BEarINgS
Engine Pro's OE style rod and main bearings
are constructed using tri-metal alloys with a
solid steel backing for rigidity.
Application
Rod Bearing Set
Main Bearing Set Chevy Small Block.................................11-663P-8.
and the rings are e-251k30. This means nothing to me I can ask when I speak to him. The rings are Total seal and there is a comp cam springs and cam, Manley con rods. The rest I cant decipher from the receipt.

Now I hope I don't offend anyone here but as for the comments that 5k is to much for an engine, I guess that for some people this is true. I on the other hand I do not. This forum question was not about if it was great value its about seeing how to diagnose and fix a problem. I regret saying anything about money as for different people 2k might be a lot for an engine. This is not really anyone's issue at all and am not really interested in opinion here. Its like saying that $255 for a 45 series Bridgestone Bizzac snow tire is too expensive when junk from Walmart would do the job just fine.

I would not walk into your home and say that you spent too much money on your horrible furniture. You get the idea. Its not relevant here.

I don't mean to be rude but this was not made at home and there is a labor component to building an engine as others have also pointed out from previous posts. So if good heads run at 1200 to 1800 then there are a lot of other components to make an engine, Cam, Block, Pumps, Pistons Blah Blah. My original engine was not used .. I received a refund for it to be used as parts exchange. The shop was not backyard bobs and they don't order heads from amazon.com and stick it together. They machine and do all there work in house.

I would appreciate that this is not where this discussion goes as there is no merit for others in the future to read opinion about price and loose track of the point of this thread. To try and provide information that might be helpful not only to my self but to others in the future that may have a similar problem. Is this not why we look on here.

Thank you all for your participation and help. I hope this does not offend. I was not looking to see if you think i was ripped off I wanted to see what might have gone wrong. This way it can be fixed and I can continue to enjoy what seems to potentially be a very fun motor. Without dwindling over the cost.

Hope we get back on track.

Oh here is the specs for the cam also.
Attached Images
 

Last edited by gavotter333; 01-20-2009 at 02:15 AM.
gavotter333 is offline   Reply With Quote