Quote:
Originally Posted by gavotter333
Thank you for the suggestions for this. These are things that I can do tomorrow and see what I find. Ill let you all know what I find.
The rods are hardened to my knowledge and of what I can decipher from the receipt they are cs-663p-10
SToCk roD & MaIN BEarINgS
Engine Pro's OE style rod and main bearings
are constructed using tri-metal alloys with a
solid steel backing for rigidity.
Application
Rod Bearing Set
Main Bearing Set Chevy Small Block.................................11-663P-8.
and the rings are e-251k30. This means nothing to me I can ask when I speak to him. The rings are Total seal and there is a comp cam springs and cam, Manley con rods. The rest I cant decipher from the receipt.
Now I hope I don't offend anyone here but as for the comments that 5k is to much for an engine, I guess that for some people this is true. I on the other hand I do not. This forum question was not about if it was great value its about seeing how to diagnose and fix a problem. I regret saying anything about money as for different people 2k might be a lot for an engine. This is not really anyone's issue at all and am not really interested in opinion here. Its like saying that $255 for a 45 series Bridgestone Bizzac snow tire is too expensive when junk from Walmart would do the job just fine.
I would not walk into your home and say that you spent too much money on your horrible furniture. You get the idea. Its not relevant here.
I don't mean to be rude but this was not made at home and there is a labor component to building an engine as others have also pointed out from previous posts. So if good heads run at 1200 to 1800 then there are a lot of other components to make an engine, Cam, Block, Pumps, Pistons Blah Blah. My original engine was not used .. I received a refund for it to be used as parts exchange. The shop was not backyard bobs and they don't order heads from amazon.com and stick it together. They machine and do all there work in house.
I would appreciate that this is not where this discussion goes as there is no merit for others in the future to read opinion about price and loose track of the point of this thread. To try and provide information that might be helpful not only to my self but to others in the future that may have a similar problem. Is this not why we look on here.
Thank you all for your participation and help. I hope this does not offend. I was not looking to see if you think i was ripped off I wanted to see what might have gone wrong. This way it can be fixed and I can continue to enjoy what seems to potentially be a very fun motor. Without dwindling over the cost.
Hope we get back on track.
Oh here is the specs for the cam also.
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There sure are alot of opinions on here, this is a great site for alot of things, but most of these guys are shade tree mechanics at best (I know there are some experts too)....If you paid 5 grand for an engine and install you paid the going rate, I know because I have been inside of an automotive machine shop...not this year ,but this week and have built many engines personally, the last one was 7K and that did not include a core or any/very little markup on parts and no labor!
As far as what is wrong, it is probably an issue with the valve train, new parts take a while to "season" and lifters are notorious for bleeding down or failing. cams do go flat, studs can pull loose from the heads, there are alot of things that can go wrong...It sounds like you are a smart guy who can get someone to figure it out... as mentioned in the previous posts look for metal shavings in your oil, after a build assuming everyting is sized right there is very little tollerance and if you see metal shavings in the oil or oil filter ( cut it open and look at the filter media), you do have problems...possibly major problems, if not then you may need to pull the valve covers to see if the lifters/ rockers are all adjusted correctly and funtioning.
New engines use oil, any body tells you different needs to check their facts, you seem to be using alot, but it takes a while to seat ring, guides etc.
taking out the engne is a VERY LAST RESORT...figure out what is wrong first.
and it is probably worth the $80-100 to get a tow to a good mechanic.
Sorry if I stepped on toes, but from what I read, you guys are going a little overboard, You should sue is not real good advice, the best engine builders make mistakes, try to work it out with them but ultimately it would be hard to get any judge to even look at this situation seriously, if it made it across country the builder did at least a fair job...a bad engine would not have made it to N.Y.
Just my opinion