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Old 08-29-2010, 11:40 PM   #10
Tyler212
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Morehead, Ky
Posts: 31
Re: Possible stroker Build

My question was what all would it take to make it happen. I've called around the local machine shops. They only charge 200$ for the work they'd do along the lines of clearence issues. And as for the 60 over I know it wont last long but as long as it lasts near a year I'd be overjoyed. I've been scraping by on cash so long on my project that I cant keep it on the road.

This will be the 3rd motor that it'll have run for an extended period of time. The 7th block I've had horrible luck with this thing. We took a motor that was in my step dads daily driver not a month earlier and put it in this truck and it didn't run over an hour. The freakin oil pump went out and it locked up.

It does run a little hotter now that it did with any other of the motors though. But it had the stock 2 core in it. I've put in a 3(gotta love free stuff) and when I get the money I'm going to put a 4core in. Since then its ran at about 130 driving and 160 sitting and thats after sittin a while.

The professionals I've talked to said that they'd charge about 350 to 400 guessin high for all the work I'd have em do. That includes checkin the block, acid bath, checkin if the crank's balanced, connecting pistons to the rods, new cam bearings, freeze plugs and to check the heads make sure there not damaged or anything. And thats from 2 of the closer places. I'm going to another in the morning to talk to them about it.

As long as everything checks out it shouldn't cost like 1000 to 1200 max. The stroker kit comes with crank, rods, pistons, main and rod bearings everything needed for the rotating assembly. If I can I might even have them build the bottem end. I know its not hard but the people I'm going to see in the morning are the best in the area if there work is as good as their reputation.

Why is it its always late when I actually get the time to get on here lol. And I would have answered sooner but I was in hazard co for the weekend for their fire school. If you have any comments or questions I still would like to know as much as I can about this before following through. Any preference between cast and forged? how about I or H style connecting rods? Whats the biggest cam I can put in it and it still clear? Interior or exteriorly balanced? And just making sure could someone confirm the direction that a connecting rod seats in on the crank? I think I've figured it out but it'll be the 1st time that I've built one from the block up. I can't think of anymore questions at the moment. I'll try and check in sooner this time but for now I'm headed to bed. Thanks for the welcome and goodnight!
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