[flomulgator]

Hey Greguw,
thanks for answering my questions a page ago. Just to clarify, my 1991 is the old body-style, looks near identical to 89-90 on the surface. 1992 is the first year of the new bodstyle. Hope that didn't sound patronizing; you clearly know your stuff very well. Thanks for the info though; since I won't be trailing it it sounds like I could get away with leaving the frame as-is if I pull the trigger on the Cummins swap.

As for your tach problems, I recently installed a TinyTach. Latches right on to the injector line of any diesel and requires no setup or calibration. Not a huge fan of the digital display but if your headaches continue maybe you could buy that and convert how it's being displayed?

Also, I wish I didn't know enough to appreciate how good your wiring looks. Unfortunately I've had to replace most of the wiring in my truck so I now know what good wiring looks like. Someone was wondering why all the wiring under the dash is molested? here's why:

On a -15 degree night in WY once my truck nearly caught fire while parked in the middle of the night, with a lot of wiring fusing and melting together behind the dash.. My guess is the very dry air had something to do with it. Had to get it towed and a shop did a quick fix for me, rewiring what was necessary. Years later on my second rewiring trip behind the dash I figured it out. After about 20 years all of the electrical connections on the truck will have corroded, and if you still own one of these and haven't yet, do yourself a huge favor and clean all contacts on the truck. The problem is the amperage keeps going up as the connections get poorer. The worst offender, by far, is an aluminum ground bus that anchors only to the thin body sheet metal. This is the ground for most of the wiring behind the dash, and the cause of all my headaches. It was in atrocious shape, and it appears others out there in internet land have had this experience. I chopped off all the GM style clips and rewired everything to a giant gold bus station with ring terminals, and then grounded the terminal directly to the battery via a long wire. I literally saw a difference in my stock IC voltometer. This bus is located up the left wall above the parking brake; you'll have to pull the dash and instrument cluster to get to it.

/rant, hope it helps someone.

Also, I feel ya on the cost runups. My latest fixes and 3/4 ton axle swap w/ wheels/tires was only supposed to run me about $3k. I'd guess I'm double that. How'd that happen?!?