[DetroitDan]

well, I have the new studs ordered from ORD. No idea how long it's going to take to get them, I also emailed them to ask a question about them, no response. Guess I'll try calling them today. I gave up on the easy-outs, undid the tierod, caliper, and lower balljoint last night. Got a hubsocket from Advance, today once I get enough coffee in my veins I'm going to go out and finish pulling the knuckle off, then I'll either take it to my local welding shop, or to a machine shop. Welder is a heck of a lot closer, so I hope he's around today.

Everybody is telling me not to use the lift block, and that dropped pitman arms or draglinks are much safer. I guess I'll have to look into that, but for now I just need it back on the road. I will address the issue again before trying to run 37s.

Ghetto, any more pictures? What did you do after the machine work, just use longer studs to put the wheels right on there where the rotors go? Look plenty strong to me, if anything there's less leverage than with a DRW adaptor way out at the end. IDK why the thread I was reading says you shouldn't do it. Also, I'm very intrigued by the DRW front hub/ H1 wheel combo. I was assuming I'd have to find and buy 16.5 wheels to work, although I often see the military tires for sale with the beadlocks. Not the prettiest wheels, but hey they're cheap and if they work good it beats paying a ton for chrome or aluminum. They certainly look tough. I want to see a picture of H1 rims on a drw front, I cant imagine how it wouldnt stick out a mile, even with all that negative offset. My wheel mounting surface is nearly outside the fender now.

Boy, it would be grreat to use those wheels, leave the whole front end alone (once I fix it and put it back together) and just swap out the rear axle. In case I didn't make it clear, I have a fleetside box on top of a cab & chassis, so my rear axle is the very narrow corporate 14 bolt. Which axle should I swap in? A Dana 70 or wide Corporate 14? Or what about a SRW 14 bolt? I cant remember what years had 70s and what had C14s, but any 4.10 fullfloater should work as far as bolting in, even a 3/4 ton, it's just getting the wheel spacing right.