Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Elco
Yaaaay! Hot tip- take your sander and round one side of those d-blox over on about a 1/8 radius. They tend to dig in as you approach level changes. Also, most paint store cats are hot rodders-let em know what you're up to, they'll usually be helpful. You got a roll of 80 and a roll of 150 stickyback and some guide coat, right? I really like that 3m stuff. Remember, sand at a 45 angle away from you, long a stroke as possible, alternating directions to make an x. Hope im not being a pushy ass, just hoping your truck comes out good, youve made a great start! Good Luck!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Elco
Also, the round d-block proved to be all I needed for the curves. I just scrubbed the firewall and a pillar smooth. Had a biiiig hole in both roof sides. Blocked the repair, scrubbed the rest. If you can still roll the cab on its back or flip it on its nose, that's the hot tip for painting the inner cab roof.
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Not pushy ass at all! I was eyeballin the easy road, thinkin I could half-ass down that way to assembly and you helped convince me. I appreciate that and all the tips and advice you're throwing my way. I really don't think it'll be that bad. I didn't get any abrasives cuz I still wasn't sure what I'd need. I'm done with the pucky except one small repiar I've got on a fender and then prolly just tiny spots here and there that show after epoxy. I was thinking 200 then 400 from here on out. I've got some 180 to scuff epoxy. What's the advantage to wet sanding? Is it just to wash the dust off you're work and keep the paper clean? That's gonna BLOW now that it's getting cold.
So for the firewall, pillars and areas that won't need blocked... Should I still put G2 on there before basecoat or should I only apply G2 where I need to block? Can I just use rattle can acrylic enamel or black primer for guide coat? What about tinting some of this G2? Oh ya, I just got grey. Is that going to be best for the butternut yellow and white basecoats?