[gofastnut]

Idle/Run mixtures

Timing - static thru 3000 RPM
leak in headgasket/bubbles in radiator/milkey oil--check, no
Dwell
Points condition--check, new
Mech Advance on dizzy
Vacuum Advance on dizzy
Oil pressure--check, good
Thermostat condition--check, new
Filth in the block--Flushed block once a month ago, will recheck
Hose condition//spongy, collapsing--check, no
Belt tension, glaze, etc--check and oooh, will replace belt
Water pump play and condition--check, no play, but 25 yrs old.
Worn out/dirty coolant--check, new coolant
Radiator core old/thin, even though not leaking--check, good possibility.
Radiator cap rating and actual function--check, cap is good, coolant doesn't bubble out
Add an over flow tank for another 2 to 3 quarts capacity in the top of the rad w/o it puking it out on the ground all the time--check, no puke
Exhaust manifold heat riser stuck in closed or partly closed position--hmmmm
Restricted exhaust--doubt it, but will check.
Dragging brakes--check, brakes OK
Slipping clutch--check and no. It was professionally installed by this here amatuer 10 yrs ago!
Improperly adjusted valves--hmmm, valve adjustment on this may be like putting up a new flagpole on a condemned building.
Gage and sending unit condition and associated wireing resistance.--check. hit with IR temp gun.
Then....consider a radiator swap.

But, 210 w/o steam or a popped hose/core in traffic riding the clutch and lugging the motor ain't bad in my book. Perfectly within the no boil range of 50/50 glycol/water a 160 to 180 stat on a hot day with a 12 to 16 lb cap. If it cools back to stat temp when ya start moving and doesn't die or boil over when lugging, you might not have much of a problem.

Sheesh, talk about a complete check list! Thanks Sharps! It goes to 210 and stays there, no matter what. So I will be doing the above things that I haven't "checked" off and see if that helps.
Thanks for the info, keep you posted.