Quote:
Originally Posted by franken
Could you share some of the seemingly secrets of patching while not ruining the part?
You show great before and after pics but what about the dirty middle parts?
Just removing old bits can take hours.
Forming new parts even more.
Welding is an art.
Finally, removing proud weld bits and not original metal is beyond art.
Please... show the dirty parts after the rust but before the DA makes it all look pretty...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franken
Then, what about planishing to unshrink after welding? Do or don't?
If do, what about when you can't, such as a front fender at the lower rear ?
Sorry...
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Appreciate the questions! We are going to be replacing the floors/kick panels/inner rockers in a '66 F100 in the next few weeks and I'll try to get some of those details on camera and post them in that build thread. The link is in my signature.
For stretching the metal back out after welding, I only weld one tack at a time so the "heat affected zone" is relatively small, so there is minimal distortion to begin with. In areas with access to both sides, the "hammer on dolly" method can be used to stretch the weld area and remove the distortion. On areas that can't be reached, the stud gun can be used to pull up low spots. My metal finishing is nowhere near perfect and it requires a light skim coat of filler most of the time; I'm not able to go straight to high build primer over epoxy without a skim coat yet. Maybe one day with more practice and better tools! I'm still using a Harbor Freight (Hazard Fraught
) hammer/dolly set... Need to pick up a set of Martin's soon.