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Old 07-26-2013, 11:28 PM   #892
markeb01
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread

No I didn’t use hardener with the Blitz Black. The same as with automotive quality acrylic enamel, the catalyst causes the paint to cure by chemical reaction. This causes heat which can liquefy the lacquer. I’ve read on the painting forums that in severe cases the new paint can end up on the floor because the lacquer underneath just slid off the metal.

Regular enamel is an air dry product which is why it can be applied over just about anything – no chemical reaction. The other reason I don’t use catalyst is because at this point in my life I don’t want to invest in a full breathing system like Hobbyair, and I no longer spray anything with isocyanates in it. All of the urethanes and all of the hardeners have isocyanates. Even POR-15 has iso’s, but as long as it is brushed on a respirator is safe enough.

25 years ago I sprayed catalyzed acrylic enamel wearing a respirator and bunny suit. At the time I didn’t have any facial hair and felt this was sufficient. Since then I’ve learned that beyond the danger of ingesting isocyanate fumes, it is also absorbed through the skin and even the eyes. I’ve had a full beard for 20 years, so without full breathing gear including a full face mask I’ll never spray it again. If need be I’d prefer to outlast my paint job rather than the other way around!

And yes I sprayed directly over the sanded lacquer since it was old and completely cured. The only places that received primer were the areas with extensive rock chips (lacquer chips easily). Blitz Black is a nice heavy paint that covers completely. I had no issues with bleed through, even over that ugly yellow primer color.

And thanks for the compliment. Considering it is just a cheap home garage paint job I’m very pleased with it. For a year or more before I decided to paint it, I spoke with every person I encountered with a flat/satin black car or truck. As best I remember I only met one guy with a Willys race truck that I thought looked better than mine turned out, and it required 6 or 7 complete repaints to get the sheen to match overall. His was flattened urethane and very striking. What I liked most was his turned out much blacker than mine. Every other one I saw had rough patches, shiny spots, a faded gray color and other problems. One had an unusual finish that literally looked like a very gritty eggshell. It looked decent from a distance, because it was at least the same color and finish overall.

The main thing for me was to prep the truck and apply the paint as if it was the best paint job I had ever done, using the most expensive materials. It seems many that do paint jobs with cheap paint, expect it to come out looking that way so they don’t put in the necessary effort to have it come out nice.
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My Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444502
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