Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cummins
I second the separate tranny cooler. Build a bracket and mount off your frame and wire an e-fan to it, plumb 2 short lines and be done.
Looking at your To-Do list, you might look at my build if you haven't already.
I used my factory tank. Just had to drill a couple holes (vent and return).
As for wiring, there is not much to it. Hardest part is getting the right field wire combination for hooking up the Chrysler alternator/regulator.
I have done 2 now so it is becoming a walk in the park. Feel free to ask for help if needed.
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I really like how you've set up your fuel tank, it's simple and straight forward.
I was considering doing something similar, and staying with the stock tank, but then I decided I really liked the Dodge's 40-20-40 seat instead of my stock bench. After I put that in place, I realized that I couldn't use the stock fuel tank (evidenced by the second picture in the series below.)
So, after a bit of research, I've found someone using a tank from a square-body suburban.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551269
I've done some cursory measurements, and also checked online. There are three sized tanks that the Suburbans came with:
25 Gallon: 28-3/4" x 28-18" x 10-3/4"
31 Gallon: 28-3/4" x 28-18" x 12-3/4"
40 Gallon: 35" x 28-3/4" x 13-1/8"
(Sizes verified on LMC Truck, O'Reilly & Napa Auto websites)
I think that the 40 gallon tank will be a bit too long behind the rear axle, but the size of the 25 & 31 should fit between the frame rails nicely. I've been putting this part off since it'll likely require a run to the junk yard to get all of the parts that I want to make this happen. Dragging everything around in a junkyard when it's more than 110 degrees outside didn't sound like fun, so I focused on other things. Now that those are starting to close out, I'm reviewing this option again.
Now, for the conversation around the transmission cooler. I don't disagree with any of the conversations or points that you guys have thrown out. I'm reviewing this option, and looking at a different implementation. While I agree with you on some of the points you've made, I'd like to hear more from you guys on this.
Ryan mentions that he worked to keep his at about 160. I've scoured the websites of transmission shops and ATF companies and seen that the max you should run is about 175. There's one website out there that discusses the temperature as it relates to longevity and provided a chart discussing the temp and how many miles it'll be good for before it breaks down. (Yes, it's the internet, so I know there's about a 50% chance of truth, which is why I'm actually asking for this discussion.)
Degrees F Miles
175 100,000
195 50,000
215 25,000
Basically, a ratio where every 20 degrees = a 50% reduction in the life of the oil.
So, if it's running at 185 degrees, then it "should" be good for about 75,000 miles.
I know that everyone's rig is a custom built application. Most of what I do in mine is camp and 4-wheel (like Mosesburb). At most, I have a 4x7 utility trailer that I pull behind my truck that I load with the stuff I don't want to have in my sleeping quarters when my camper shell is on. Adding to that, in the 14 years I've owned the vehicle, I've never put more than 3k on it in a year, mostly weekend driving for the home-owner duties, and a couple of hunting/camping trips a year.
With a better explanation of what I'm building the truck for, is this still a critical item?
(Again, I'm asking for feedback on the topic, this really isn't a "troll" trying to start a religious battle.)