[GCncsuHD]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

GM wants 10", I've about seen 5-6" work in a pinch, but that was on a straight section of tube off the front of the tb. The maf wants smooth air, so it wants to be on a straight shot of pipe, far enough from the tb that it won't get turbulence.

Can it be done with less, yes, but you sacrifice some accuracy to do so. On a stockish swap that "just has to fit", then its not a problem...but something being modded, tuned to max effort etc will suffer from it. If you have a tight clearance problem, and are still looking for power, you can consider running SD and eliminating the MAF

This is pretty much it. The main key is to reduce the turbulence so that the MAF can get a good reading, preferably in a straight shot of intake tubing. This is much more important if you have a "screenless" MAF. If you have a stock style with the honeycomb screen LEAVE THE SCREEN IN, it straightens the airflow for a better reading. Those are the ones that can usually work decently the way Andy has his, though not optimal, it will usually be OK that way. The ones without a screen will typically be all over the place if mounted like Andy's, but are usually fine if mounted in an ideal straight piece of intake tubing.

Speed Density is always an option, especially if space is an issue, or a cleaner look is desired (or for more precise tuning flexibility on forced induction or high HP builds), though for a daily driver with a mild build, especially one you like to take road trips in I would stick with MAF as the SD is sensitive to weather and elevation changes.