I'm sorry I'm not trying to harp on anything here,, or be demeaning in any way....but your getting WAY ahead of yourself.
Your getting some kind of custom stroker crank for $325?????
You really can't select a cam until you know a LOT more like compression, converter , gearing / tire size, (vehicle weight would be a plus..) Desired driving type/style... And that one thing that still hasn't been answered..... cubic inches!
You don't know what length pushrods you need until you assemble the motor with the cam, heads, and rockers, valves and springs installed at proper height... that are in YOUR particular assembly.
If this is a stroker crank,, at that price it is going to be some imported cast item that is going to need a BUNCH of balancing. Is it internal or external balanced?,, the balancer and flexplate you buy depends on KNOWING which and ordering the RIGHT part or you will beat the bearings out of the motor.
The MDS 6al will not do a THING for you here except offer high side rev limit. Be sure to order the packag of chips for the RPM limit you are wanting. A 'good' HEI with divorced coil will do everything you want.. Well except lighten your wallet the additional $300
I'm wondering what the "Vortec Custom built for Cam" is at $800 Is that the heads??? what cc are they? Do they have the correct springs for YOUR cam?
I guess all I'm getting at is your asking for advice, but only offering only a piece of the information needed.
If this is just budgeting,, I dont see:
A pan with clearance for the "stroker" crank
Oil pump / pickup
Timing cover
correct flexplate for balance method
Unless your on the track, you REALLY do not want a double pumper carb. Find a good used 3310 vacuum secondary holley and rebuild, or if you insist on new, the
4175 will fill the bill nicely
I don't see rocker arms in your list anywhere,, they have to be the vortec specific self aligning rockers for Vortec heads,, or maybe not depending on what head this is,, a GM casting or some aftermarket.
Everything I see in your engine plan I'd stop, drop and roll then stat all over.
If you have a machine shop building the short block,, GET SOME SPECIFICS so you can make intelligent decisions not a 'carcraft trick of the month' part selection
For the difference in the cost of the parts your going to be having to buy twice,, and the gallons of oil additive you will be buying to keep a flat tappet cam alive,,, you can do it right step up to a decent hydraulic roller cam. Performance, economy and RELIABILITY is 10 fold improved.
If that "Vortec Custom built for Cam $800" is for heads,, your 2/3 of the way towards one of the best Vortec heads on the market for a street car / truck, The Edelbrock Etec in the 170cc version will be an EXCELENT choice for a heavy truck, ~355 - 383 cubic inches with anything less than 6800rpm. Those heads have such astonishing port volocity we have used them on 406 motors and made over 500HP,, and put the same head on a 327 with EFI and eeked out 22MPG @ 75 on the freeway in a 3900 pound El Camino.
Ive used the RHS iron Vortec heads, GMPP "Bowtie" vortecs, Dart, and the L31 production castings tweeked to work with more lift. The off brand reconditioned L31 / imported Vortec head clones are not the bargin thay appear to be.
All in all it's your pile of
,, you have the right to throw them at this motor any way YOU see fit. But if you drop back 5 and think about this here a bit with some clear information and then make some INFORMED decisions,, you can follow some very wise words....
BUY ONCE, CRY ONCE
or... make your choices, pay your money and live with the results.