Quote:
Originally Posted by jaros44sr
Thanks for the EXCLUSIVE, ok folks you saw it here first. I thought i would like them, and i do. Still working out how to do it to 4WD.
Just thought that being in close proximinty to the wheel, the heat may cause damage to the tire bead, but im sure you covered all your bases
As far as the bed goes, i removed all the sheetmetal.PITA! Two crossmembers were rusty, so i had to replace them. One was the rear, and bought a 73 and later piece. It just happened to have a 3/4" notch in it that fit my wood perfectly,even had the holes in the proper location for the SS ribs, then just layed it on the front step up, and it was all level.
Had to enlongate the mounting holes and use fender washers on the wheel houses as they were now 3/4" higher, and moved the two seams up to match up again, but that was easy, as i just flattened them and rebent were needed.
When this oak fails, as im sure it will, i ll be putting a plastic in, as you suggest, or ipe
If you do it, i ll be here to answer your questions
Not sure if you can pull off door panels and glove box door in wood, seen it done and did nt look right, unless you do it like RR, and use a veneer, serious craftmenship at that company
|
Actually the rotor isn't all that close to the wheel, it's the caliper that is close and heat is shed through the rotor not the caliper. It is all tight in there and I do plan on running Castrol SRF in the brakes which has the highest boiling point of any brake fluid available (it's also by far the most expensive brake fluid there is at $75/liter). I went for what I felt was the best comprimise in brakes, large surface area, mid priced rotors, cheap pads, and all commonly available. I did some sacrificing of performance in exchange for reasonable maintainability and specifically went with the transmission I did and configured it the way I did in order to suppliment the brakes with engine braking.
So are wood bed wheel houses and steel bed wheel houses the same? ...or is one shorter than the other? ... or do the wood bed pickups have a lower structure so the bed is at the same finished height? Anyway, like I said I don't think I'll do an exposed bottom bed anyway, whether it's plastic or wood, either way I think I want to keep the thickness to about a 1/2" as neither material is all that light. The HDPE sheets I don't think would work well unsupported anyway, certainly not at 1/2" thick, I think it'd get wavy from the heat of So Cal. Ipe is very dense and heavy and again I'd want to keep it to about 1/2" to keep the weight down.
As far as cab trim, yes I'd use veneer for that. Apparently with Ipe you have to scorch the surface before you laminate it or it'll seperate because of all the resins in the wood. It's largely replacing Teak now for boat decks and trim, and apparently is harder, more durable and easier to maintain, oh and will take a fine finish ass opposed to teak which is somewhat limited to oil finishes. I know in my (admitedly limited) exposure to marine finishes that teak really needs and thrives with OLD boiled linseed oil, but it's also not something you want to be in an enclosed space with. I wipe down my outdoor furniture with the stuff and you can't keep the rag anywhere inside the house it'll make your nose burn and eyes tear, even if it's several rooms away.
This is the aircraft seat track I plan to use instead of the bed strips, irregardless of whether I go wood or plastic:
There is also end caps to finish the ends, and I think when I worked it out if I mounted it on the low part of the bed corrogations and used 1/2 inch thickness "decking" I could route the material to recess the track flush with the surface. The plan is to use this stuff for anything removable, so top, bulkhead, motorcycle wheel chocks, back seats, tie downs, maybe even removable bed body cross braces.