cleaned up the upper arms. removing those old balljoints is a pain. The new balljoints I recieved in the mail had too big of a shank on them. they didnt fit my knuckles. Had to go to autozone and get some for a 64. super dumb.
but got them on.
The tire hits the wheel well. I need to tub those still. but then it will only sit down another inch at most. I REALLY wish they made drop spindles for drum brakes. I was looking at what it would take to modify some, but it seems you would need to change up the backing plate aswell. Im thinking I might z the frame now. I dont know.
I also might pie cut my upper control arm and bend it down. the balljoint seems to be pretty much maxed out. Ive read moog joints are the only ball joints that have enough movement in them. but Im way too cheap to buy moog. they are like $90 each!
Also I think I am going to end up removing the engine and trans. then removing the front clip and removing the cab and bed. I DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS!!! AT ALL! but after looking at it and seeing what I can do, I think I need to. I modified the front subframe so it wasnt hanging down a ton. but now the transmission mount is the lowest. I still need to raise the engine and trans up ~4 inches so the steering clears it. But the transmission mount is riveted on to the frame. and the top rivets are withing a half inch of the cab floorboard. I could probably fight them out from underneath. but it would be such a PAIN. I think it would be easier to just remove the cab. then I can remove the trans bracket and make a new one. as well as flip the carrier bearing crossbrace for the driveshaft.
the wheel spacers are on because I had these brand new 16in LT tires so I bought some <$50 suburban wheels from a newer suburban. the center bore is too small and didnt fit the hubs. Im planning on using the wheels and tires until the tires are dead then getting some 15in tires for the stock wheels(white wheels in pics) which look way better.