[diceman50]

With the understanding that this is not what I suggest for your situation I will tell you what we did on Z10's truck.

As for the push rod. It depends on whether or not your truck had power brakes from the factory or not. We used the pushrod that came with the CPP booster on Z10"s truck. On a vacuum boosted system there are 2 separate push rods. (I don't know about the hydro boost units) One from the pedal to the booster and one from the booster to the M/C. The one on the pedal can be installed and adjusted independently of the other. I suggest installing the booster without the master cylinder and hooking up the pushrod to the pedal. You can then adjust the rod until there is approx. 1/2" pedal travel before engagement. Make sure that the pedal bushings and other hardware are in good condition.

If your truck had a manual brake system originally there are different pedal ratios and pushrod lengths and possibly other differences.

As for the M/C you must use the bullet with a vacuum booster. If you look at the front of the booster you should see a short pushrod protruding from the center. This short pushrod will not engage the piston in the M/C unless the bullet is installed. With a straight edge and ruler measure the distance from the front of the booster (where the M/C bolts on) to the end of the pushrod. Then measure from the same mating surface on the M/C to the center of the cup on the bullet. Make sure the bullet is fully seated in the M/C. The second measurement should be close to but not greater than the first. In other words there should be slight clearance between the pushrod and the bullet when the brakes are not applied. Without some clearance the brake might not release completely when applied and released.

As for the thread sealant we used a Teflon based pipe dope being careful not to get any on the face or the first thread of the plug.

As knomadd said the Wilwood instructions say you can plug one of the front out lines. On Z10"s truck the adapter for the stainless flex lines required a different size tube nut than the original line. Instead of cutting and reflaring the original I decided it would be easier and look better to make a separate line for the left side. I replaced the "T" fitting on the cross member with a coupling of the same size.

These suggestions are just that and are my opinion only. You may get some different views form other people but, it is your responsibility to decide what to do. Also, I don't care to get into a debate on this and I will respond only to you on this subject.