the sonoma rear shocks werent that old and I thought they would be okay but the back started skipping around after driving a short distance. I looked at the shocks and they were wet, a clear sign of oil loss. so I bought some mid line monroes, still twin tube but good shocks, the same model ART ships in their kits. driving it was so pleasant I went on an hour long cruise.
when I got back though, I smelled hot brakes. the front wheels were hot to the touch and that meant the pads were dragging. I had LD2 stand on the pedal and I cracked the bleeder on the caliper and the wheel turned fine, so I had her stand on the pedal again and cracked the bleeder at the distribution block and the wheel turned again, so I did it one more time at the master, and the wheel turned. through process of elimination, that means the rod on the pedal is out of whack, probably misadjusted when we made a thicker bracket than the sheetmetal firewall. it is applying the brakes very slightly. Simple enough to fix, I will pull the master and adjust it.
I also figured out how to make a 3 prong headlight work on the bussed electrical system with DRLs and separate low and high beam wiring. the S10 system has a different ground system for the low beam and high beam, and you cant just tie them together because it blows the low beam fuses when the DRLs are on. I found this out on my 65, which I used an HID for low beam and a H3C for the highbeam. The "C" was necessary because the housing supplies a ground to the H3 that was originally in those headlights, but the C had no connection to the housing and broke the short.
I didnt want to use two bulbs in this truck, I would like to use a 3 prong headlight, which wouldnt be hard but I ALSO want the DRLS to work. since the 60% brightness of the highbeam is supplied by a lower voltage on the GROUND side, the DRL brightness would be 100% if I just grounded the pin on the 3 prong plug. I would be essentially driving around with my high beams on all day. I like the DRLs because I am a detail guy, that soft yellow glow of the 60% bulb looks dumb on modern cars but old timey and just right on older, round headlight cars and trucks.
anyway, enough story time. I figured up a relay that allows the low beam to work normally and the high beam ground to change states without any physical connection to the high beam, and no blown fuses.
use at your own risk if you choose to put 98+ GM bussed wiring in your 3 prong headlight truck haha.