View Single Post
Old 08-20-2016, 01:28 AM   #261
Zoomad75
K5Camper
 
Zoomad75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pueblo, CO
Posts: 1,513
Re: My K5 Blazer Story.

I've been lax in updating this thread. Been busy, but got a lot done so far in the last couple of months. Without further delay, here's the pics..

Starting the mockup to fab the mount for the Tuffy console.


Installed the Trail gear covers on the seats to be more color coordinated and comfort.


Other side:


I got tired of dealing with the stupid power glass in the gate. My tech I traded my old gate to (with the manual window) let me have it back to get the guts out of it. When I brought it back I ripped it apart and got it ready to swap.


Power stuff out. Put away so if I want to go back later.


Back to the console mount. Since I didn't get the brackets with the Tuffy it was up to me to sort it out. I enlisted the help of one of my techs at work as he's a crafty guy and likes fabricating stuff. He used an interesting composite material that is basically plastic with aluminum sheet on each side. Here is the second design. He's added a cupholder from a 2005 silverado jump seat I picked up. It's upside down in the pic.


Side view of the base:


With the box on top:


Mounting this combination is done by using riv-nuts. Awesome way to do things. Here's an example in my hand and a couple installed in the floor:


The tool to put the riv-nuts in with:


Base installed for further mock up:


Box set into place:


Going inside the console is some added goodies. Power is run into the box with a 6 circuit fuse panel. This panel has 2 USB ports, 1 12v outlet and a digital volt gauge.


Starting the wiring of the panel:


Added switches. Left switch operates a LED light to shine in the box so you can see in there at night. Right switch turns on power to a 300 watt AC inverter.:


The 6x9's are mounted.


I used a riv-nut to mount the body to secure the boxes to the inside panels. Very secure:


Oh, I switched out the stereo too. Found this gem at the Street Rod National swap meet for $15. Couldn't get the money out of my wallet fast enough. Full bluetooth capability for phone and music. This thing kicks ass.


After getting the electronics set up I had a Date over at Larry's place to have him shim the rear end. To prepare I had to fix the weeping seal at the governor cover. I drove it over without the rear shaft in and Larry called me back when he had it saying the trans was leaking again. Needless to say I was pissed thinking the governor was leaking again. Turns out it was worse. Puking right out from in between the trans and the t-case adapter.


Larry at work on the shims. He's got the process down to a science.



Shims in, rechecking angles. Still way too far off to run without a CV shaft. But the new pinion angle is perfect for running a CV shaft.


Guess I better find a place to build a shaft...

Back to the inside and the console. In my rush to get it ready to drive to Larry's I discovered a couple of issues. The console light didn't work and one of the 6x9's was not playing sound. What's not shown is a small Alpine amp mounted to the bottom side of the console. It's a only a 80 watt unit, but it works great with the speakers I am using. Here's the light fixed and you can see the fuse panel in there too:


Gotta get the CB setup too. In order to do so the Antenna mount I used on the 75 was going to be put back into service. But after mocking up, it won't fit without hitting the gate as it closes. So I enlisted my brother in law who is a sheet metal fabricator to make one up with the right equipment in his shop. You can see the difference in my blacksmithing and his handy work.


Tight fit:


Since the CB is inside the console, an external speaker is needed to hear it. Bro made a quick bracket to mount it under the ash tray.


With the truck back from Larry's I figured I'd pull the t-case to fix the leak. Got a new o-ring for the trans. Got help from by Buddy John to pull the t-case without killing myself. I thought it was odd the bolts into the trans were finger tight to remove. Once sealed up we stuffed it back in and found that the friggen threads in the trans were shredded. Bolts would get snug and then loosen again. Pulled the t-case to Find chewed threads. So another weekend later John and I installed GM time-sert thread repair inserts to the trans and installed the t-case again and the bolts got tight..


Freshly tapped hole ready for an insert.


I did get around to installing a external PA speaker for the CB too. It's under the aux battery tray.


ACC Vinyl flooring warming up in the sun:


Partially installed.


Rear in. Not happy with how the wheel tub covers fit.


Seats back in..


Got a fresh crank handle for the back window. It had been used as a tray in our parts department for who knows how long. Nobody knew what it was. LOL...


Then this came in. Expensive, but very worth it. New built rear shaft with a slip yoke and CV joint up front. All 1350 one ton spicer joints. 3" thick wall tube and built very well.


Installed. This is actually mid travel. It sticks in almost 4 more inches and pulls out the same amount. Should be perfect..


That's bringing it up to date on the pics. I've driven it once to try it out to make sure the driveline does not want to destroy itself. It is smooth now, but one nagging noise is still happening. It does not match a driveline or engine speed problem. I think it's the engine grounding out on the firewall. The drivers side cylinder head is very close to the firewall to start with, but the 1/4" shim between the t-case crossmember and frame closed the gap up.

It's been raining here nearly every night since I drove it so I haven't been able to isolate the noise. Got to move the #1 son up to Denver tomorrow for his first semester at Metro, so I may not get anything done until Sunday.
__________________
Rob Z.
1975 K5 350/465/205/D44/12b 4" lift on 35's- RIP
1991 K5 8.1L/NV4500/241/D44/14b FWC Camper
Zoomad75 is offline   Reply With Quote