[joedoh]

frankly thats less than I expected. I had 3.5" tall mounts with another 1 inch S10 bushing on top of the mount and I think the bottom of my cab was 3 inches over the bottom of the frame.

but enough on that, you measured it and can see what we were talking about. My advice would be to raise it a little, to maybe the height I talked about above, and the reason would be:

S10s laying frame, especially with anything larger than a tiny tire, have stupid crazy toe and camber issues. to get an s10 to lay frame on say a 27.5" tall tire you will need tie rod notches or no-notch tie rods, dehumped lowers, drop spindles, tube uppers, and some kind of toe correcting steering linkage setup or tall balljoints for the uppers and lowers. Even with all these parts, the front wheels will pull rearward in the arches more than an inch and a half. In the rear you will need a big notch, and a link setup that is mounted more to the middle of the frame rather than under it to keep the wheels from pulling forward in the arch.

But to get an s10 to lay OUT (no more air in the bags, no more drop possible, but the frame 2-3 inches off the ground) you need.... bags and cups. and a 3" c notch, literally a 6" pipe cut in half. even the cheapest bag and cup setup. the camber stays pretty stable, the tie rods dont hit the frame, the wheels dont pull back in the arches. any rear bag setup will get you within 3 inches of the ground, even two leafs and helper bags (although a link setup is better). setting the running boards to be 2.5" lower than the frame will let you do this, and just beef up the running board mounts in case you lay on crooked ground. you will have dynamite ground clearance under the truck for exhaust and expensive dangly bits like the oil and transmission pans.

the first way with the running boards even with the frame, you dont need ANY trans tunnel or driveshaft tunnel. the second way you will need a small trans tunnel and maybe a driveshaft notch if you use a one piece.


looking good moss, keep it up!