Quote:
Originally Posted by joedoh
it may sound too simple but make certain you have a ground wire from your battery to the cab, and another (heavier) one from the battery to the frame, and still another to the engine. these are called "differential grounds", not differential as in axle but differential as in ground potential. not having them introduces ground "loops", where power seeks a pathway to ground through any means possible. differential grounding gives a single point of ground potential, at the negative terminal.
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It did sound simple until now. I have the neg of the battery going straight to a bolt on the frame. I have a strap going from the frame to the engine. A strap going from the engine to the cab.
What it sounds like you're saying is that I need the cab to have a shorter route back to the negative on the battery. I am still popping fuses but I did troubleshoot a bit further. I reduced my circuits down and took the bulb and fixture out of the front park light. If I ground/neg the light fixture to the frame, the park light works. As soon as I let the park light housing ground through the front grill like its supposed to, I pop the fuse. I even tried attaching a ground wire from the housing to the frame and that popped the fuse too. Almost like the power is going back through the cab instead of completing the circuit at the bulb. Makes no sense to me.
I bought a big box of 25a so I can keep trying haha. I can't seem to find any good basic information for this though
Edit: I moved the strap from the engine to the cab so it now goes from the negative cable lug on the frame to the cab instead. That stopped the fuse popping when I turn on the lights, but didn't get the park light working. Turn signals seem to be ok though.