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Old 12-22-2017, 03:22 PM   #247
gigamanx
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Hershey, PA
Posts: 1,004
Re: 1949 Chevy with S10 swap. Beginner build with ambition!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 to Life View Post
I wouldn't go directly off of color like Joedoh is saying. Lets focus on one thing at a time. Headlight switch, dimmer switch and front lights.

1.What harness do you have? There are slight differences in companies.
JEGS easy wire 20 circuit harness. It's super nice cause all the wires are labelled with what their function is
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 to Life View Post

2.Do you have your Hi/Lowbeam switch on floor? also called a dimmer switch?
Have not installed a hi/low yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 to Life View Post
3.Do you have 12v bulbs? stupid but necessary question.
That's ok. I have brand new park lamps and led tail lamps. the box says 12v 2 way bulb. When I took it apart, there are def two positive contacts in the center. Ground is through the fixture holding the bulb which then just connects to the outer housing. No wires. That's where I pop a circuit. If I ground to the housing of the light directly to either the engine or the frame...bam I lose a 25a fuse. Lucky I bought the big box of them
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 to Life View Post
Your "Dimmer switch" wire should go from Headlight switch down to Dimmer switch. Then your low beam wire goes off dimmer switch out to your low beams.

YOUR LIST with my answers.
Park head lamps don't work use a test light on them or wire in some known lights that work. The stock lamps are grounded inside the unit and they get rusty and the stock wires suck. so get some basic 12v lights to use for testing turn signals or park lamps. But could be wiring issue also, lastly make sure you have 12v bulbs in those park lamps.
Front turn signals work, but only when the light switch is pulled to first position. Did you turn ignition on? turn signals get their pwr through Headlight switch, so if key isn't on you need to have lights on opening the pwr circuit to them, headlights aren't controlled with ignition (which is why we often kill our battery!!)
I didn't know that. That helps!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 99 to Life View Post
Right front turn signal also seems to be leaking power to the fuel pump and kicking it on in sycn with the clicking. I'd put a kill switch toggle inline on the fuel pump. No need to have it kick on just cause you have ign on or for this matter, the headlight switch is allowing the fuel pump to kick on. You can trace that down later, once you get the headlight switch properly wired.
Brake lights are on in all positions Brake switch is wired wrong prolly, I'll get you picture of mine. Orange should be PWR and White is the Switch side you just need to know which is which, also make sure the button is pressed in to get the lights to go off.
Brake switch doesn't affect rear lights- could be a simple wire swap to fix.
Turn signal works for right rear light but not left. check grounds and bulbs and also that your wires are correct up on your column.
Turn signals only click the relay when the ignition is turned to on or acc. This should be how it works as I stated above. I'm almost certain but not pos!!



I didn't have a manual for the light switch so I guessed on that one...
AUX = Power for gauges -- should be right
BAT = Fat wire labelled "Head light switch power" -- should be right
TAIL = Rear Tail Lights -- should be right
PARK = Front Park Lights --should be right
HEAD = Low Beam --as mentioned above, Head is your Dimmer switch PWR
There's an extra black screw on the front I think that's the dome light? YES
For now I unhooked everything unless its a circuit I'm testing. Interesting about the fuel pump cause I noticed it would turn on whether the key was in "ON" or "ACC" position. I thought it was weird that "ACC" position would put power to the fuel pump wire. I disconnected it for now.
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