Quote:
Originally Posted by VWNate1
This is a common problem, the solution is fairly simple :
Right after you spray the next shot of penetrating oil on the threads, *SMACK* the bleeder screw dead on with a hammer, the shock will wick the penetrant in and loosen the threads .
If you smack it off center or sideways, you'll snap it off so pay close attention here .
I'm sure you already know to only use a SIX POINTED tool on any bleeder valve ! .
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Actually, the one bleeder cooperated very easily. The other resisted firmly, so I switched to the line fitting, and it loosened without much trouble at all. and, oh yes: 6-pt box end or socket--absolutely!
I've got some pedal but not as much as I want, so there will be more bleeding in the near future. I would have done some more today, but the test run got everything hot, and I didn't want to crawl back under that way.
The last time I replaced the MC, I had to replace one of the short steel lines between the MC and the distribution block, and the replacement didn't survive the removal, so we had to drive into town to pick up a replacement for the replacement.
I tried to knock the little adjustment slots out of the new drums, but the stamping wasn't deep enough, and the punch just distorted the metal rather than knocking it out. I may go to the trouble of drilling, but not till Fall ;-)