Quote:
Originally Posted by weq92f
My opinion here is that approximate TDC is good enough for installing a standard timing set straight up ( dot to dot ). Don't think on a BBC the "slop" at TDC ( where the rod sort of rides the slope at the top of the journal arc ) would be enough to cause the chain to skip a tooth. If it were, you'd probably see that in the dot alignment anyway, right?
-klb
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I can't say I know much about engines (such as "where the rod sort of rides the slope at the top of the journal arc"), but I think I get your meaning. What's straight up and down to one guy might differ from another (i.e., slop).
When I turned the cam and crank separately, seemed I could feel the engine assembly, for lack of better term. In other words, using the crank as example, as I rotated near TDC, clockwise or counterwise, there's a fine(ish) line where a little nudge offers more rotation. To me that means the other valves are opening/closing, which would be off TDC. There's a happy place somewhere in the middle. That make sense? Not that I put much stock into a level for this, my torpedo level seemed to confirm my vision the marks are lined up.
Speak of slop, I was sure the block was level side-to-side first....HA!. Discovered early this stand only holds the block level if I rotate it to do so. Any movement it's off center again. My guess is that's common.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jocko
as for finding TDC with a dial indicator, isn't too awful necessary - can be done with a dial indicator or just a cam degree wheel/piston stop combo. GM didn't do it when this rolled down the line, no need for you to either, unless you're goin racin. If you were running high compression pistons/high lift cam combo, you may want to go thru the whole enchilada and find true TDC and verify cam specs with the degree wheel - and check for valve to piston clearance. Just not necessary w/stock stuff though.
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Not sure how to use any of those tools yet, but should I have had done any of this before installing the chain? I'd rather waste a lock plate now than do everything over again later (yikes). For what it's worth, I didn't go through the engine or remove the cam. It was rebuilt some time ago, with stock HP heads off a 396 Corvette, for example, with a high RPM "RV" cam. If memory serves me punched out = 412-419 something like, 350 HP. Sounds stockish to me. Let me ask, other than dropping the distributor and setting timing, any thing else you'd do on this block from a timing perspective?
I still have a pump to install yet HA!......The painter is taking his time with the oil pan. Can't even install the timing cover, pending a powder coated timing plate. SLOW moving man.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator
Figured I missed something. I guess comprehension is not high up on my list. LOL
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Flip-side might be worse. Try taking everything literally
It's confusing.