[LH Lead-Foot]

The rod on the booster has to line up with the brake pedal. On the 67C10, the hole is low and usually requires a linkage bracket for about $60. I don't know where the older booster rod lines up, but drilling new holes will take advantage of the OEM bolts that have some reinforcement so the bulkhead or firewall doesn't flex. Some brake pedals have a linkage hole higher up, use it if you have one. It helps with mechanical advantage for your foot to booster ratio. LoL.

The original front brake line work off of one feed line into a "Tee", then from there it goes to left & right. You have two lines for the front, so that 3/16" flare fitting will require union with a flare design. You can fabricate a bracket to hold them after you make a decision to go outside the frame or inside the frame. I chose to drill the frame and run a single front line thru a grommet for each side to hide them, but evenly spaced to look clean. Remember to leave enough room for wrenching when you make you run choice. I used a flare union in the middle of the frame and secured each line with wrap around clips bolted to the crossmember for the right and inside the frame for the left. The rear line can follow the fronts in the same fashion, while spaced equally to look good. A flare union is used there also to the rear single line. Hope this helps. Other choice is to plug one of the front lines at the proportioning valve, but use a flare fitting plug to complete a good seal. Then run one line down to OEM "TEE" fitting. I think the front lines on that proportioning valve is 3/16" and rear is 1/4". You have a couple of ways to go, depending on how much room you have to work in. You may have to get a 3/16" to 1/4" flare line adaptor if you use the OEM "TEE" with the lines shown in the photo. Best of luck.