Quote:
Originally Posted by SunSoaked
This makes me wonder: If the harness can only pull 30 amps what is the purpose of high output i.e., 100/150 alternators? That means every accessory added must go directly to the battery and not thru the fuse panel, even the open ports?
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Knowing how the harness is wired is the key. The fusible link is only in the battery circuit for battery power. The alternator is wired to the main junction and each of it's loads is fused separately or through the fuse panel. That's why it is never a good idea to run a one-wire alternator output wire directly to the battery positive cable and then the fusible link wire carries all the current.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dead Parrot
There just weren't many high draw gizmos on most 57s. Couple of taillights, plain incandescent headlights, a few dash lights, a heater fan and maybe an electrical wiper motor.
The 57s had fusible links and all their current runs through the links but they only had a 30 amp generator, plus all their current runs through the amp meter.
The max output may not be of much benefit but getting an internal regulated alt that outputs higher idle current can be. On my 75, switching from a 10SI to a 12SI got rid of much of the idle dimming when running headlights, blower on max and wipers. |
You are absolutely right and combining them with relays will get you enough power for brighter headlights and faster motors etc.
Here is my diagram to convert to the SI and eliminate the external voltage regulator. I probably have a 1000 posts on the forum about how to do it.
And if you want to use the nineties and up CS style use this one and just add a 35 to 300 ohm resistor in the brown wire to the L terminal on the alternator plug.
