Thread: 55.2-59 Electrical
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Old 12-27-2018, 09:36 PM   #5
2bo.c10
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Long Beach, Ca
Posts: 72
Re: Electrical

Again! Thanks for the detailed reply - See answers in bold

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven View Post
clarify "when I turn the key to kill the ignition, it doesn't turn it off". it stays running like normal and would keep running for days unless you stall it?stays running like normal it did work at first until I started messing with the brake lights. There is a harness under the dash around connected to the headlight switch but I dont believe it was connected to the ignition - I will have to confirm though it idles fast normally but now it stays running after the key is turned off but not running smoothly when this happens, more like running like a diesel or "run on" so it pings and runs rough etc? (this can be because of a fast idle with no idle stop solenoid to close the throttle plates when the key is off. a hot engine can draw enough air/fuel through the partially open throttle to keep the engine running in a "dieseling" style scenario where hot spots in the cylinders act like glow plugs and actually ignite the air fuel mixture). some other explanation?
clarify what you have for engine235 Straight 6, ignition systemPoints (points or electronic), voltage12 Volt and has an alternator (12 volts I assume), ignition switch typeOld style under the dash (old style on the dash or newer style in a swapped steering column), starter actuator typeStep on starter pedal (old "step on the starter pedal", retro fitted push button start on the dash, old style ignition switch with "start" positionOne two positions for my key in the ignition, newer style ignition switch in a retrofitted steering column from a newer vehicle), alternator or generatoralternator etc
ensure there is a good dedicated ground to the frameframe is grounded well, cab Cab I believe is grounded well (will have to check but I believe it is)and engineEngine is grounded
test ign switch operationWill need to Youtube how to do this
test for voltage at the distributor/coil with key on engine not runningI can do this with my power probe but i believe the key does prevent the truck from starting if its not in the correct position, key on and engine running and then key off when engine wants to stay runningThis is exactly what happens
test alternator next (could be back feeding power but usually the battery also dies overnight because the diodes in the alt allow the battery to be drained)Battery is holding a charge - recently battery was low so I put it on the tickle charger and it fired right up after about 30 min
anyway, more info required
what was wrong with the tail lights, could possibly be a ground issue that affects the ignition system also?Not 100% sure but I still have a slight issue. When the turn signals are in a turn position (right or left) it causes them to act differently. When the turn signal switch is in neutral position, brake/tail lights work as they should
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