Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
nice pics, that explains a lot for those who see your truck for the first time. looks like you have a start with the tools. the bending pliers will tend to kink the line if youre not careful. i use them for close to fittings only when i can't get the other style to fit. there are a few videos showing the tubing bending theories. try a few flares on scrap line till you are confident you have it down to a science. here is a common bender for smooth bends in the open areas of the tubing that allow the tool to fit in.
https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bend...liers-kit.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulc6tiFX6H0 |
Ill put some practice on both flares and bends and might build a straightening tool as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
with your set up it is common to attach the prop valve under the master cyl just for ease of running the lines. it could be on the frame out of site though. an adjustable prop valve is nice but once set it is forgotten about unless there are problems or changes made to the system. just ensure the master cyl is one for a disc disc set up as well. a residual valve may be pressed into the master on the drum brake port otherwise and that will give you grief unless it is removed. not sure what the master came from.
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OK. Just to show my ignorance here - isnt the proportioning valve the silver thing with the lines on the side (drivers) below the MC ? I do believe its a disk/disk MC my memory just is getting bad on these things and bought it like 2 years ago. So I was thinking thats just a direct hookup and would only need either a residual or adjustable valve if that one wasnt working.
eg looks like this just to side of MC - but silver
https://www.carolinaclassictrucks.co...p-Valve-1.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
have you checked your pinion angle and compared to the trans output? it looks like it is pointing downward a lot. could be the pic./ pinion angle should be equal but opposite to the trans output within a degree or otherwise you are asking for vibration especially with the offset diff center section.
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Yes correct.
Rear end is not where it needs to be -- I still need to weld in perches.
I was going to get the pinion pretty close with a jack to lift it up and get angle ... and then run the lines.
How about stuff like.....
1) Venting rear
2) Flex Lines to Hard lines .....
3) Cleaning calipers/pistons or inspecting them - they have sat like that for 2 years ?
4) Safest/best way to route across the front. Guessing on backside of the XMEMBER ?
Is the soft line to hard line just a locking tab on a bracket like this ? Generally ..... and cycle the axle to make sure nothing pinches.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/prop...019-brakes-jpg
Then there is a banjo bolt I assume for soft like to caliper - but are these standard size ?
Finally - once all hooked up ...... anyway to test ? Just fill with fluid and pump the brakes and bleed ...... and as long as holding pressure and engaging without leaks - should be good ?