Short update on progress - most of it is under the truck and hard to photograph
Ran the fuel line in 3/8" 3003 aluminum tube. The larger of these two lines feeds the boost pump that keeps the swirl pot full for the fuel injection. The 1/4" return line draws off the top of the swirl tank keeping it full for the Walbro high pressure pump. I didn't want any o-rings or rubber hose anywhere in the system, so it is hard-lined all the way from the main tank to the fuel spider. The pumps, tank and Corvette FPR are all mounted on the passenger frame rail and are easy to get to for maintenance or repair and can all be removed with a 1/2" and 9/16" wrench. Everything is held in pkace with ADEL clamps and I drilled and tapped the frame for #10 machine screws to hold the tubes in place.
I turned the fuel spider 180 degrees so the fuel fitting was facing back towards the cab. A stainless Swagelok fitting with a mechanical seal to the spider tube is the adapter that gets the fuel rail to a -6 JIC male fitting.
I plumbed the airbags/compressor/tank/valves in 1/4" aluminum tube too, but I had to use some flexible hose to get the air into the cab, but I went to the hydraulic hose store and had them made up with crimped-on fittings. Fingers crossed that this will result in a fairly leak-free system. Here's an airbag plumbed with hard-line-
Since the airbags are for ride comfort and I'm an old coot who isn't interested in 'airing out' my truck, I am going to use miniature air pressure regulators to control my ride height - one for each of the front wheels and another for both rear wheels teed together. I used brass bulkhead fittings to get the air in/out of the cab and the regulators will sit just under the seat where they can be easily adjusted by the driver.
(Russ - comments and critique of this method is welcome - please weigh in)
There's a 4 gallon air tank for the system fed by a Viair compressor - probably a little small for the truck. The tank pressure compressor switch is set for 180 PSI to make up for the smallish tank. The front airbags begin to lift the car at about 90 PSI and the rear bags only need about 55 PSI. The regulators say they're good to regulate to 9 bar, so they should be good for the application. I welded a bung onto the bottom of the tank at its lowest point so I can install a ball valve to drain out water by reaching under the running board. I also put an air chuck fitting on the discharge of the drain valve so I can hook the truck's air system to shop air to troubleshoot it. I like belt-and-suspenders designs, so I put a Schrader valve on the tank too as an alternate way to fill it or check pressure.
Brakes are done too, with the exception of one bubble flare that i'll need a tool I'll have to borrow. If you'll recall, I had to remote mount my hydroboost and master cylinder back further on the frame rail, so I need to cut a hole for access in the floor pan under the seat. I used the NiCopp 3/16" brake line and it's very easy to work with -highly recommend it.
Next I have to plumb the Hydroboost and power steering - going tomorrow to the hydraulic shop to get some hose and loose fittings. I'll have hoses with 90s on both ends so I'll need to make sure they're clocked correctly to fit before I have them crimped.
Phil