Quote:
Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine
Yes, cap the Vac line when dialing the timing in. I pull the Vac line hose off the carb and plug it with a golf tee.
Setting a points gap at .019 is just a starting point, it is not a cosmic etherial number that must be kept for the alchemy to work. We're not trying to trasmute pig dung into gold here, just adjust an old technology machine. So once you have the initial point gap, loosen the distributor lock nut and rotate the cap until you get the desired 31 - 34* of Dwell. You may have to close the points gap.
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How does changing the timing effect the dwell angle? If dwell angle is exclusively the measure in degrees the points are closed then I dont understand how timing (via rotating the distributor) would impact the amount of degrees around the distributor cam/the degrees of the points being closed. I thought the only way to change dwell is to change point gap, but point gap (dwell) does change timing. I may be confused?
I went back and found a thread actually that you started (Going back to Points -- L6 292) and you said you dropped your gap to .010 to get a good dwell. I did the same and got 33 degrees, since I have new points I believe ill have to readjust due to the new pad wearing breaking in. So i think we are good there.
I reset the timing to about 12 degrees advance.
Now I am able to get it going maybe about 5 mph and it wants to give out if I give it anymore gas, starts studdering like its going to die and if I let off the gas pedal it comes back to a steady idle. Its getting too much gas at this point? Is it at this point i would adjust the fast idle? and leave the idle screw alone? This is obviously the first experience with a truck carb.
A lot less smoke BTW