Time for an update , I guess. Thanks to all that read my postings and the nice words.
Working on the wiring and we've got the Rebel kit's fuse panel mounted up under the dash next to the sub-panel for the LS motor and the PCM. Looks a little confusing here, but not too far from wrapping up the wiring work in the cab.
I installed the LED tail lights with the flexible conduit, but really didn't like the look of it. I welded the hole for the light wire closed and then drilled it for a JIC fitting and ran the wire through that. For conduit, I bent some 3/8" stainless tube and flared it for the JIC fitting
A little closer look. To get the lamp to fit tight against the bracket, I had to take out the wire seal. I made a gasket out of 3/16" rubber to keep the water out
I looked all over for parking lights for the GMC and couldn't find any. The Lucas units off an old Triumph TR3 come pretty close, so I rebuilt these and put an amber bulb in them. There's an extra hole in my fenders underneath the light that didn't get filled when I did the body work. I put a stainless carriage bolt in it to see what it'd look like.
Trying to get other things that I'll need to complete the wiring harness installation.
One of the features I'd like to have is some lights in the bed roll to augment the lights in the factory location. I know there's bed roll lights available but I'd like to make some. The plan is to take some 40MM brass core plugs and drill them for discreet LEDs. I want to pot the LEDs in red tinted epoxy resin then sand it smooth and polish it. Thinking about putting one of those boxes that flashes your brake lights a couple of times when you press the pedal. With everyone on their cell phones, I'm feeling a little vulnerable without a rear bumper.
I looked at an ad the other day for an 'electric parking brake' and it looked like a good idea, but the price was pretty steep. I bought a linear actuator off of fleabay for $30 and paired it with a DPDT switch. The fly sheet that came with the actuator said it'd pull 300# with a 2" stroke. I had a custom cable made to work with the Jag IRS brakes. Here's all the parts mocked up on the floor - I'm looking for a place to mount it under the truck and see how it works.
I finished up the exhaust system I made out of mandrel bends and painted it with Rustoleum paint that said it was good to 2000F. I used 'southern' muffler hangers. I'm not sure what makes them 'southern' but now the whole system is isolated on rubber bushings in six locations.
I looked around for exhaust tips but didn't find anything I especially liked. Summit had some polished 304 stainless mandrel bends so I bought one and cut it up for tips. Welded the stainless to the mild steel with some stainless rod' The clamp is just to hold the last hanger rod.
Since the Jag diff doesn't move and is mounted relatively high in the chassis, there's enough room to run the exhaust under the diff. I made a support plate that mounts on the LCA brackets and holds the muffler hangers as well as the attach point for the control rod that sets my pinion angle at 5 degrees to match the engine.
Thinking about what do do for crankcase ventilation for the LS motor in my truck, and ran across this on fleabay. For around $20 I bought this machined aluminum can. It is baffled inside, has a dipstick to check to see if there's oil condensed in the container. The threads on it are a mystery, but I'm thinking they're just poorly tapped NPT and I can run a tap through to clean them up, but other than that it is a nice piece. Going to hard plumb this on the motor.
I also need to do something for a radiator catch can. This is another fleabay Chinese $20 product with mystery threads. For $20 I'll cut the fittings off and weld an NPT bung on it.
That's about it for this month
Phil