Thread: 292 Questions
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Old 08-06-2019, 09:13 PM   #24
VWNate1
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: So. Cali.
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Post Manual Timing

O.K., the deal is :

You set the points using the dwell meter then rev. the engine, the dwell *must*not* change more than a degree or two .

The breaker plate is allowed to move up and down a tiny bit and it's possible to not have it properly set in place .

Once you have the 31 ~ 33 degrees dwell, attach the vacuum gauge to the open manifold port on the leading outside edge of the carby, start the engine and allow it to idle 600 ~ 800RPM, slowly move the dizzy _NOT_ touching the vacuum can, watching the vacuum gauge ~ the needle will rise and eventually will begin to flicker like it did in one of your videos ~ what you want is the highest steady vacuum reading .

Once you have that, tighten the dizzy's pinch clamp (don't go crazy here, use a stubby box end wrench and DON'T FOOL WITH IT AGAIN .

Now, put a tight fitting cap over that vacuum port and connect the vacuum gauge to the dizzy's advance pie using a 'T' fitting, goose the throttle, the *instant* you open the throttle you *must* get a vacuum signal to the dizzy or you'l et stumbles & flat spots .

I assume you've replaced the leaky vacuum advance can ? .

If not, STOP until that's fixed then go back and laboriously do every step in the proper order :

Set dwell .

Set timing, either to 10* BTDC or using the vacuum gauge, the vacuum gauges more accurate because it compensates for your engine's wear, altitude, low quality gasoline and so on .

Once all this is done you can adjust the idle speed then the mixture then the final idle speed .

If the carby is still dripping fuel, there's a serious problem ,most o the time it's the float is too high because you touched the floats as you assembled the top of the carby to the bowl .

Use the printed cardboard float gauge supplied in the kit .

These Rochester MonoJet carbies are the last, final and very best iteration of the 'B' series that began in the 1940's .

That compensating valve do - hicky under the sheet metal plate ? don't worry about it, stick shft engines don't normally have it .

If you think the ignition coil is bad, try to afford the correct DELCO HEI one, there are two versions, one has a separate coil, AC / DELCO sells rebuilts or a junkyard one will do .

If you're strapped, buy an EPOXY FILLED coil from NAPA or other high end place, when I sold 'standard blue streak' ignition parts the coils were often bad right out of the box or failed in a week or two .

Accel coils are outstanding if $pendy and FUGLY because they're eye searing yellow .
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