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After reading some stuff online I agree that a leak down test seems like the better test for this situation. I have compiled the instructions below from what I have found online, tell me if I have anything wrong.
Never done a leak down test myself so does this all sound right?
CYLINDER LEAK DOWN TESTING
Getting Ready for Testing and Testing:
Remove all spark plugs.
With all spark plugs removed you can turn the engine by hand at the crank bolt with a large ratchet and socket.
Cylinder being tested must be on the compression stroke (intake and exhaust valves closed).
Install leak down tester in spark plug hole of cylinder to be tested - always follow instructions with tester.
Re-test with piston located at different heights in the cylinder (for cylinder wall damage), but make sure you are still on the compression stroke.
Acceptable Amounts of Leakage:
All cylinders leak a little. Large ones leak more, smaller ones leak less.
Racing cylinders lose only 1 to 2%.
Production multi-cylinder engines in good condition will leak 5% and less.
More than 10% leak down means there's something wrong.
Understanding Leakage Indications:
Hissing (air leak) in the carburetor indicate burnt, tight, or carbon build up on intake valves.
Hissing (air leak) in the exhaust indicates exhaust valves.
Hissing (air leak) coming out of the dipstick hole or valve covers indicates worn or heat-softened rings.
Hissing (air leak) escaping from an adjacent spark plug hole indicates a blown head gasket.
thanks!!!
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