Quote:
Originally Posted by VWNate1
Not to worry about the timing indicator, that's why I said to get a dynamic timing light with the advance dial on the back .
You should have gapped the spark plugs very first thing, it makes an amazing difference / improvement because wider gaps force the ignition system to it's full out pout and the hotter sparks burn everything, oil, gas .
DO NOT use hotter spark plugs unless you're forced to, after you've done everything else .
FWIW, when I'm at auto swap meets I always find at least one good timing light and give $5 for it ~ the ones I buy are the old chrome metal case SEARS Craftsman inductive typ, so far none was broken, I bought one that didn't have the dial to get the cord & inductive pickup for my 45 year old old I plain old wore out after forty five years of daily commercial use .
No one I've even met has had the far less user friendly plastic Snap-On ones last even 1/2 that long .
The advance dial allows you to set the full advance timing using the 10 degree indicator .
For now, just leave the timing where it is, re gap the spark plugs and then re adjust the idle mixture .
A vacuum gauge will help you set the mixture better .
You don't need new tool$ ~ used will do, remember : I grew up a farmer and every penny counted .
Not "poor" because that's a state of mind , broke, very different and I live well (I'm fat & contented) in spite of little $ .
Keep at it .
I wish I was closer, once I show you how it's done you'll be able to keep an old nail running sweetly for pennies and make $ tuning your friends and neighbors rigs sharply once they see how well yours runs...
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All good advice! It seems like when people want to help, the other person is on the other side of the continent. How come people near us never seem to ask for help?
It's always fun to lean in over the fender and make something run better, in person.
OP- the 1404 appears to have vacuum secondaries, so you only need to make sure that the primary bores are all the way open when the pedal is on the floor. The secondaries will come in as the engine demands that. Note that they will
not open if the choke is not all the way open, and only open under load. You probably won't be able to get them to open when the truck is standing, and I don't recommend it, in any event. If you still have a hesitation off the line you may need to rejet or replace the metering rods. It's a piece of cake to just replace the metering rods. You should have received a DVD with your carburetor. They'll go into detail about it, but you can usually go in steps of 4 on the metering rods to richen it up enough to cover that hesitation. See if one of your friends has the jet and rod kit. You need 2 metering rods, and buying the whole kit is a spendy way to go to get over the hesitation. The soot mark on the floor is possibly from having the choke too tight, and then when the engine first starts there's going to be condensed water. That means you don't have any or small exhaust leaks.