Quote:
Originally Posted by Baker819
I'm fully aware what Vettevet said and I have unrestricted flow from the battery to my alternator post. Its the same thing but safer because my test leads arent long enough unless I daisy chained them together.
How would you suggest I check for power at the alternator? Power in?
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Test light or preferably, a volt/multimeter.. One lead to ground and the other lead on the alternator output post.. Should have same voltage as the battery 12 - 12.5 volts... Anything less and the battery needs to be charged.. The reason for connecting directly to the battery is this method eliminates any and all loose and/or bad wiring connections, including ignition switch, firewall connectors, main power distribution circuit, and fuse links.. As has been stated previously, if the engine doesn't run on the test lead, the problem is in the distributor.. If it does run, then it's the time to start checking the wiring and related components...
Simple solution to short test leads... Raid the old wiring harness.. Buy some alligator clips and make some test leads of varying lengths.. One of my test leads is around 15 feet long..