Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyPile
Test light or preferably, a volt/multimeter.. One lead to ground and the other lead on the alternator output post.. Should have same voltage as the battery 12 - 12.5 volts... Anything less and the battery needs to be charged.. The reason for connecting directly to the battery is this method eliminates any and all loose and/or bad wiring connections, including ignition switch, firewall connectors, main power distribution circuit, and fuse links.. As has been stated previously, if the engine doesn't run on the test lead, the problem is in the distributor.. If it does run, then it's the time to start checking the wiring and related components...
Simple solution to short test leads... Raid the old wiring harness.. Buy some alligator clips and make some test leads of varying lengths.. One of my test leads is around 15 feet long..
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Understood about the reason to go directly to the battery and makes sense what you're saying about the coil wire. Voltmeter and it said I had 12.33v in the battery and the same when checking the output of the alternator.
Good tip on test leads, I'll have to make some.
Any ideas how to test the distrubitor? Its nothing special I dont think it has one of the modules like some of the others.
Thanks