"If it was easy to drive a old vehicle then everyone would be doing it!"
I've been saying that for years and living it all this month.
Once the driveline was installed I checked the U-joint angles. The one piece set up definitely changed the angles. The transmission angle didn't change, but the number I read did since I did the readings up on the jack stands this time.
The new number for the transmission is 2 degrees down.
The drive shaft was at zero degrees.
The pinon angle was at zero also.
Not the best arrangement. So I ordered a pair of 2 degree shims (Last photo) from Speedway Motors as there was nothing available locally.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Rear-...SABEgIe6PD_BwE
A couple days later I had them installed and once I had reset the bags to ride height and had double checked that the transmission number hadn't changed I checked the other angles.
Transmission angle 2 degrees down
Driveshaft angle 5 degrees up.
Pinion angle 2 degrees up.
I was surprised that the drive shaft angle changed so much with only 2 degrees of pinion change.
All this means the U-joint angles are now both 3 degrees. Just about perfect in my book. And all this leads to the "It's not easy" part of the project.
When I was originally installing the drive line during the GV installation I had noticed the yoke was damaged. One of the centering tabs for the U-joint bearing caps is shaved off. (Photos 1 & 2). Photo 3 shows the undamaged side. I used a C-clamp to install the U-joint caps. I put one end on the yoke and the a socket on the opposite cap and slowly closed the clamp until I felt the cap on the damaged side was where it should be. Then I torqued the cap bolts. Not the perfect solution but I felt it was good enough to drive for a short time and see how the drive line worked.
I drove it to across town and picked up a pair of free RUSTY Pontiac blocks. The truck now drives super smooth. Better than it has ever been for me. Next step was to go by the rear end shop and see about getting the yoke replaced. They ran out and measured the yoke and got me a new one (Photo 4) and explained how to install it with a pneumatic impact wrench. I was leery that it would work. We talked about for several minutes and went over it a couple of times. The idea is to push the yoke on and put some loctite on the threads then rattle the nut down and stop the moment the nut quits turning when it contacts the yoke. It is supposed to not change the crush of the sleeve that way. Well I should have listened to my inner discomfort about the procedure. I was worried my hot rodded impact would be too quick to stop in time so I turned it down a notch and turned the air down to 90 psi.
Needless to say I didn't get it right and after I had it buttoned up I backed it down the alley 30 feet and the rear end began squalling. Damm!
So this morning out the door at 7:15 and at 8:45 rear end was in the back of the Blazer and off to the shop.