Quote:
Originally Posted by 64shortbox
tchevs,
Not sure what proportioning valve you have but on a GM proportioning valve if you remove the brake light switch from the proportioning valve you can reach down with a small flat blade screw driver and recenter the valve and there will be NO brake fluid loss. Attached is a cutaway pic of a GM proportioning valve and a pic of the tool to hold it centered. The tool is plastic and works fine & not expensive. Hope this helps.
Oops, I just reread your post and see you also have rear discs so I doubt you would have a proportioning valve.
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I am going to order that little plug. I do have a prop valve that is for disc /disc. I am going to start all over again, as soon as i have time to work on it. Im going to bench bleed the master and get some plugs to see if by chance I damaged the master seals during bleeding. Im going to take some measurements to see how much the pushrod is actually pressing on the master. I have been researching online, it seems that manual boosters need a 6 to 1 pedal ratio and power masters need 4 to 1 pedal ratio. ??? what does that mean? does it mean that power master needs less of a travel? More of a Travel? I know that when I changed to power, I didnt adjust for the new ratio.
I have also read that disc/disc doesnt need the prop valve, but there is websites that say you do need it.??? who knows, it was supplied with the booster/master combo so I installed it. My mistake is that i installed it in the original location of the old disc/drum. That is on the front crossmember, which is right below the radiator, very tough to get to.
Thanks for your help. Im determined to make it work/figure out whats wrong and post it. Threads with a solution are nice because it helps other going through the same thing. Tony