Quote:
Originally Posted by VoyagerXll
I was mistaken I do have the clam shell mounts as you posted. They too were separated. Am I correct in assuming that the " std anchor (brand) mounts for 60s/70s v8 cars" will have the same dimensions as the engine mount on my S10 engine? My guess is yes. If that is the case, I should be able to locate the frame anchor points correctly via the bolt shown in the picture that passes thru the "original" frame anchor point..I apologize for my ignorance concerning motor mounts.
The other picture shows a bolt-on frame anchor point that is used on some, I think, Blazers and perhaps others . If I could locate a pair, it might make the task a bit easier. Tomorrow,I may be headed to the salvage yard to have a look around
Not sure how to get the picture where I want it in relation to the text. I will see how it goes.
There is a really nice looking, very straight AD truck located where I live. It has been sitting there for several years, I know the owner but do not know if it is for sale or not.
Stan from north east NE
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stan dont apologize, its not necessary, we are all here to help!
yes the older v8 mounts will bolt directly up to your 4.3 and they will fit a frame side mount like in your first picture. you can get all of the parts you need at a place like speedway.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...unts,1905.html
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/3-Bol...k-V8,7959.html
you would need to trim the universal motor mount and weld it on the s10 frame, 8 inches back is right behind where the front crossmember stops. remember that center to center of the frame side mounts should be 16.25" apart!
that picture of the frame side mount is the steel clamshell mount I was talking about. it would only work iif you bolted it to the frame in the stock location. I know a guy on another forum who did a 50s willys, he moved his (dodge) engine back 11 inches in his dakota frame. if you dont move it back, it will be pretty hard to get a radiator in it.
thanks for the heads up on the AD, unless you were considering it for yourself, in which case I recommend it!
back on this door. the miserable thing about the old door was how it shut but I had already put all the new felts and rubbers and glass in it. the new door also had a big problem with the regulator, it was stripped, more than stripped, it was worn down like an hour old christmas candy cane. I debated on cutting the splines off the bad door regulator and welding it to the new door, but my brother actually shamed me with some properly weighted "hmm"s and other "how lazy are you?" questions.
so I tackled it. if you havent done it, my advice is as follows: to get the (7 per door!) reluctant screws out, dont waste time with a flat head screwdriver. they have seen two or three US wars and are part of the golden era, so they know a thing about tenacity. Instead I used a big pair of vice grips on the heads to get them loose.
to get the regulators out, they come out the bottom hole in the door and the best way is to let the crank spindle down first and flip it over inside the door, so the window lift part comes out first. if you try taking it out spindle first it will get caught on the window stop in the middle of the door, flipping it over is easy and only took a second.
you can make out the worn spindle (and broken spring! surprise!) on the one due for replacement. install is reverse, put the spindle side in first, upside down, along the bottom of the door, then you can shove the arms up enough to grab them and get the inside track in the roller, then the spindle in the hole to get one screw just started, then rotate the center mount around and viola!
I had to uninstall the felts and rubbers and even the outside garnish molding (it
was stainless on this door, out of place with the rest of the truck) but hey, third time is a charm.
works great! I noticed there were slots in the center mount, no idea what that adjusts but I just put them back where they were. everything works ok. yes, my vice grips are PAST the splines, I couldnt find the window crank.