Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieinNC
I have to ask....Why dry sump? Wet sump LS engines work well in just about every iteration imaginable..without any oil systems issues....
Dry sump LS3's have a forged crank, and it is a little longer because dry sump oil pumps have two gerotors instead of one, as on wet sump LS3's.
Oil Pan
Dry sump oil pans are also different to accomodate oil flow to remote tank. And there are two drain plugs.
Very important that both drain plugs are removed when changing oil!
Most likely will not fit into a C-10 without major work on the cross member.
Oil Pump...
The Katech pump really is probably the best option in my opinion; it's what I use in all my dry sump engine builds unless it requires an external pump....not likely needed on a street car.
Reluctor...
Depends on the engine model...
Accessories....
Best way IMHO is to grab a full donor vehicle and sell remaining parts to recoup some of your outlay....
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Ok, Ill research the pan. I was hoping some peeps had done a dry LS motor and would have a host of pics. Typically dry pans are much more shallow than wet (oil in tanks) so I was hoping the pan would have significantly more clearance than a wet but I have no measurements to base this on.
Grabbing a doner vehicle with factory dry! I love the idea but could wait years to find a complete Z06/Z07 Vette and honestly would feel bad about pulling the motor if the car was salvageable.
I acknowledge the dry has no real practical benefit in my application and is a complete waste of the additional expense and time to implement. The ONLY reason is purely for the uniqueness and the a certain cool factor. Im not hell bent on the idea...but if I could make it work without being a huge pita Id like to try. Im OK with a small pita!
~JH