You can swap the entire crossmember as a complete unit or just use all the suspension pieces for your disc brake swap.
I used the spindles/b.joints, brake flex hoses, brake hard lines/prop-valve, rotors, bearings, dust shields, tie-rods/adjusters, drag-link, & sway-bar. I would have also used the control arms because I feel the 73-up rubber bushings ride better, but I already had new 67-72 style solid bushings so I just used them.
Some people feel swapping the entire c-member is easiest. I took stuff apart to rebuild it so just went the piece by piece method.
You will need the correct 67-72 power brake bracket & master cyl/pwr booster for the firewall if you are upgrading to pwr brakes. I've done several of these as have other board members, & theres more than 1 correct way (my way isn't the only correct way is what I mean). If you have any questions.... ask away.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....
Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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