Thread: TA_C10: Stage 1
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Old 09-14-2020, 12:47 PM   #934
TA_C10
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Re: TA_C10: Stage 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by derotoreut View Post
I have a commercial grade John Deere Zero turn and man can it chew up some grass fast! I also have a 72" finish mower that I pull behind my JD tractor. We have 9 acres at our house (cut about 4 acres). We also have 68 acres that we use for camping, hunting and ATV's. We don't cut all of that, but we do cut some some.

I would love to test out a JD....


Is there a reason you went with your intake set up to the passenger side? I can't recall unless I go back and read through the build thread again. I am real happy with the one I used. It puts the intake to the driver side and allows me to keep the stock battery tray. You can see it in my build thread.
I chose the passenger side because I built my PDU panel on drivers side. I also relocated my battery to frame rail and that left a huge ton of "nothing-ness" on the passenger side so it was the logical place. And logical as well because I wanted to build a box or block off plate in the fender area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidmoreGarage View Post
Looks like good progress. Getting closer.

You didn't ask for advice on the intake, but I see an opportunity to offer some motivation. I see a lot of trucks that are super nice with LS swaps and the intake tube is a compromise. They have couplers, bends, and an awkward look. My suggestion is to take your time, and maybe even weld up what you want. Once it runs- you may not get back to it for a while.

When you say it's smooth, you mean it doesn't have the bead for the couplers? For N/A you can get by without a bead on an intake tube. You can even get away without a bead on 2.5" intercooler piping at 7 psi.
This is good to know, yes I meant the beads. If I don't need those I may have another option here. More on this in a minute.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI View Post
Ditto and I'll add.... Use what you have to get what your set-up needs as far as the length, bends, & the position of the specific parts. Then find a shop to build a single tube from aluminum (or whatever) based on your mock-up stuff. It would look much cleaner.
Thanks for the options fellas. I would much rather do a short run to a filter with a smooth pipe because of looks for the most part. But I see time and time again factory setups going to a box or block off plate(essentially a box) to the fender side away from heat. And we all know here by now I am no expert at any of this business. My father owned a mechanic shop for years so I have more of a mechanical set of skills and knowledge than anything else. So I understand the cooler air intakes. This is ALL I was trying to achieve here. My brain said let's get cooler air, and left out the good looking part... If I had it to do all over again, I would have put the PDU on passenger side, and then ran intake to drivers side not competing with rad hoses. Or different radiator with upper on the drivers side.... But I am at most things here, a newb when it comes to ground up builds. This is my first.

I purchased this expensive kit almost a year ago now, I should have waited.
But the decision behind that was I can't weld aluminum because I don't have the tools for that. This is also going to only be a daily driver, so looks weren't at the top of my priority list. But then that's a lie, I still want it to look good, I just made a hasty decision and now I gotta live with it.

However, I think I still have a small option for better looking, if my idea works out. I am really hoping to be able to hot weld this plastic together in the middle joint removing that sleeve completely. I also plan to smooth all the unnecessary beads if I can do that and paint it perhaps, I dunno. But I will still entertain any ideas from you guys. I will look into the aluminum route and see what it will cost me on top of the expensive kit I have now

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TA_C10 Stage 1 build - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8333444

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