I got the returned carburetor installed this morning. I have to say, it's much easier to get her to run down the road without her falling flat on her face. I think I got her dial in okay, though on Tuesday I'll have my shop take a look (she is going in to relook at my rear end leak). The difference is night and day but it is apparent I am no carburetor tuner. This is even with my fancy timing light (to watch for max idle) and vacuum gauge (to watch for max vacuum)!
With that said, I still have these problems:
- Can't get the anti dieseling solenoid to do its job, still idles ~500 RPMs when solenoid is disengaged.
- The above is with the throttle closed, of course, and the high pitched whistling is still there. The whistling goes away once I adjust above 600~650 RPMs.
- The left (passenger) adjustment screw is still really loose, lots of wiggling. The right (driver) seems okay, especially compared to the left. I haven't any idea what issue this could cause, if anything - other than perhaps being able to fine turn the mixture on that side of the carburetor.
Seems the "whistling" would be a air leak, which in turn allows the engine to still idle, even though the throttle is fully closed.
Edit:
From Mark @QuadraJet Power
Quote:
It is idling at 500 now? That is so low that the anti dieseling solenoid would not be effective. I thought that solenoid was primarily utilized to kick up the idle speed when the ac was turned on.
With throttle blades closed and low idle speed, the carb is pulling air through every possible point. Throttle blades are typically open slightly to get proper idle speed and allow the flow through the primary blades. Your carb, as with most, has a bypass air system to allow some air with throttle blades mostly closed. Might have a sound if you try to force all the air through the bypass.
Idle adjustment screws often wiggle. No problem.
|
I am a bit disappointed that it seems they haven't any clue as to the operation of the GM Stop Solenoid / Anti-Dieseling Solenoid.