[my67c20]

(long read) Reviving the dead. First off thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Over the early (cooler) months on the year I did add a spacer and moved the temperature sensor to the thermostat housing, plus replaced a few dried-out fuel lines. Fans run less often, but hot start issues still existed. Investigated adding a return line system to cycle the fuel, but never happened.

Fast forward a few months, needed to use the truck and the rear fuel bowl gasket was leaking, again This was the straw that broke my back, so I pulled the trigger on the Holley Sniper Master Kit (please don't hate me).

In process of this install, I knew I needed to add a return line. Since my current sending unit was reading incorrect, I figured now was a good time to replace it. I searched for one with a 3/8" output and return line. All I could find was the stock version with the 5/16" return. I know how to solder, why not buy 2 and modify one with 3/8” line for both? The result was something so pretty and it would give that stock appeal.

Problem was, it did not fit thru the opening in the tank. I probably could have spent more time on it, but the master kit came with a return fitting, so I just went that route. Maybe something to consider for the future.

The kit came with the fuel pump and filters, so next thing to tackle was where to mount it. Found a nice place on the frame, near the place where the fuel lines exited the cab. Spent some time bending up a nice bracket, drilling holes for the pump to mount and even slapped some paint on it. Unfortunately, when I went to position the bracket, it was too wide to fit between the rails. Fortunately, I was able to rotate it and have the fuel pump mounting holes line up.

With the fuel pump mounted, next step was to route fuel lines. Got me some 3/8” aluminum line from Summit and using my flaring tool, put a small bubble flare on the end to retain the line. With some creative bending and drilling another hole (with grommet) near the original cab exit I was able to route the lines out of the cab.

Since I was under the truck now was a good time to deal with the 02 sensor. I decided to mount it on the right side. The kit comes with the clamp on bung fitting, which is the route I decided to go. If I had my welder nearby, I would prefer to weld a bung in place. I marked the location, then unbolted the downtube from the stock manifold, so I could drill the hole. After wrestling with the exhaust and bolting it back in place, I installed the clamp on bung fitting. In hindsight, I should have positioned the fitting and secured the clamps, marked the hole, then dropped the exhaust. Tightening the clamps was difficult due to space constraints

Once the 02 fitting was installed and with the fuel system sorta done, next step was to tackle the extra wiring. Not an overly complicated task, but the kit wiring if untouched could look like a spaghetti fest and for me that was not gonna fly.

The throttle body has connections for 5 harnesses. One is the power harness, second is the fan / tach harness, third is the temperature sending unit harness, fourth is the 02 connection and the fifth is the controller connector.

The cable length provided in the kit for the temperature sending unit looks like it was intended to be installed someplace in the manifold. The only place I could do this was located right under the upper radiator hose. Had to add about 3 feet to the wires, so I could route it around the back to the port in the left side head. Would be nice if there was an option to buy a 3 foot extension.

The power harness has the fuel pump fuse, a relay, switched input and the coil connection. Trick was where to mount this and not make it look horrible. Had to cut off their harness wrap and redo it so it was to my standards. Probably could have left what they had, but again not how I wanted it to look. Once I figured out how to route the wires, it was a straightforward install.

The only wire I needed from the fan / tach harness was the one to connect to my aftermarket tach. This was removed off the distributor for the coil wire. Again, made it pretty and mounted it behind the engine.

The 02 connection was straight forward. For the controller, I would need to drill another hole in the firewall. Fortunately, when I switched from stick to auto, I still had the clutch linkage boot, so I just stuffed the wire thru there.

The master kit came with everything for a basic install, was easy to install with basic tools and probably took about 16 hours over a few weeks due to runs to the store for this or that. Still need to make the right connection to the fuel sending unit, but at least the gauge works.

After install and before starting there is a specific process for setup that must be followed, and the directions do a great job of walking you thru it. After reading reviews and watching videos, this was the point where I was expecting issues. I cautiously went thru the set-up process being sure to do exactly as instructed. All screens displayed as they should, fuel pump functioned, no fuel leaks, so now it was time to turn off the key and fire it up. Turned the key to the run position, waited a few seconds for the fuel pump, turned the key to the start position and it fired up right away, with a high idle. Waited for it to idle down, but it did not and heard a loud sucking noise as well. Of course, this was the point I realized I forgot to hook up the manifold vacuum line. Once that was hooked up, idle came down no leaks, time for a test drive.

The system learns when the coolant hits 160 degrees, so they recommend you drive it nice for a bit. Clearly, they don’t drive a classic vehicle. Anyways, hit the open road and talk about night and day difference. No hesitation coming off a stop, immediate throttle response and feels like there is some power gains, or it could be assumed from the dual marks left on the road. Stopped to fuel up (gauge works) while hot and it fired right up. Cold start next day (85 degrees), fired right up.

Overall, I could not be happier and wonder why I waited so long to pull the trigger. Still needs some tweaking and could use a tune-up, but what a difference is has made on the drivability. It still runs hot and had the temp climb up to 202, but it was 100 degrees and the throttle was getting pressed hard. When I just drove it while learning, it hit 195. Of course, not my first choice of vehicles to drive in these temperatures anyways, but nice to know I can. If you made it this far, thanks for reading and if you have questions let me know.