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Old 11-10-2021, 10:47 PM   #8
Ziegelsteinfaust
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Temple City
Posts: 3,566
Re: Torque converter dilemma

In my experience gear ratio is just as important as torque converter stall. As in total to the package. Especially if you have heavy rim, and tire package. A vehicle is a series of comprises, and components to get the most of ones desires. How ever you stack it.

Anything over 2500 rpm will allow the engine to idle perfectly fine, and sometimes as low as 2000 for a performance cam. My 1971 LT1 cammed 350 I built ran perfectly fine with a 2000 rpm stall, and would idle steady after 1/2 mile of driving in the morning. Mind you it only gets to about 40 here on the coldest nights. Can't remember how any of my cammed engines did in the snow or sub 30 degree weather. I did take a few of them places in winter so it couldn't of been to bad to make me remember. Due to the pain.

In 07 I got a GMC rcsb with a 4.8, full bolt on's, 2500 roughly stall converter, and 4.56 gears. A friend at work had a extended cab with a 5.3, and was *****en about loss of power, and mpg when he added 22's from 16's. So i told him get some gears, and suggested 4.11's as they were a better balance for him. After some arguing I told him come over, and let's put them on my truck. You will see the difference. He did, and he went with 4.33's as to split the difference.

My 93 LT1 383 with a bigger smog legal cam has a 2500rpm non lock up converter, and 4.88 gears. It would be ideal for most people with 4.11 gears. I can get away with the non lock up because of my gear ratio.

Lastly. Some people like loose converters, and some don't. A few people I know thought my set up was mad till I gave them a ride. It works, and revs up nice. Yes it is obviously not for everyone, and is definitely hard edged. Yet it works very well, and my engine drives fine. Besides my octane issues, but other then that. It does good hwy mpg, and no over heating going 75/80 for 100 miles.
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