['68OrangeSunshine]

Nice machining. I prefer a manual choke too. Electric chokes and bi-metal strip automatic chokes are too fiddly to adjust. Also with the wildly divergent climatic conditions in Arizona -- desert heat, or mountain elevations. no flatlander setting will work full time. Best to have manual control. My '68 C/10 w/ 292 had a ptoduction manual choke. I had to convert a Holley R8007 4160 390CFM to run manual. When I reengined in 2005, I bought an Edelbtock 1404 -- 500 CFM, manual choke.
My old '67 K/10 Suburban, ''White Fang,'' had a 454 and a 625 CFM Carter AFB. I lived with the automatic choke until on two occasions, the choke went off on its own at the wrong times. Once I was working in a pit mine and descended several levels -- a few thousand feet. I had to jam a Craftsman screwdriver into the carb to keep the valve flaps open. Later, that winter I was in Pinetop at about 7 - 8000' on the Mogollon Rim, and my choke choked off again. I used the screwdriver trick again. As soon as I could, I put in a manual choke. I think That's a generic HELP section knob and cable. New -made for vintage application parts were not available then... pre-internet days.
On my '71 GMC Jimmy, I got a vintage-correct choke knob and cable [with metal knob insert] to match the Custom trim level of that rig. Carb is a Carter AFB 9635S - manual choke. I drilled a 3/8 hole in the plastic instrument panel and mounted it under the Wipers switch.
Works great.
I am having a gripe with the The GMC's original Headlight Knob and shaft. It pulls out OK. Headlights go ON/OFF But it's stripped, so when I turn it, it spins rather than adjust the dash light brilliance levels. Cheapest solution would be to pull it out overnight, and let a few drops of Super Glue drip down the shaft, and see if that keeps it from spinnning instead of adjusting the dash light levels.
The alternative would be new replacement knob from a vendor.

[I also have a Manual Throttle cable, but I'm missing some parts to fully rig manual throttle on that truck.[