[Second Series]

I have been putting in time here and there. I connected a computer to the ALDL and found the alternator was not charging. I had removed a dual battery module and looked at my ’90 k1500 as an example of how to connect the alternator. It had one wire from the 4 pin connector, so that’s how I ran it. This truck from ’88 needs two wires connected, it also needs the charge lamp in the gauge cluster, or a resistor to keyed voltage. I connected the gauge cluster under the dash for now. At this point the battery was shot, so I traded it in for another. It also looks like there may be a vacuum leak. There is a vacuum line from the base of the throttle body that goes to the charcoal cannister, I connected that and ran some hose to the hard line that goes to the gas tank. The ’90 truck has just the one hose from the cannister to the tank and no vacuum lines. Thanks to Chevy Tech for helping interpret the WinALDL.
I got a copy of the wiring that gives a little more detail Thanks to Hatzie. The gauge cluster has a lamp in parallel to a resistor for the Volts indicator. I looked on my old gauge cluster and found the resistor to be 470Ω 5Watt. The bulb is a #168, that specs to 14v .35A. Through ohms law I figure it’s about 40Ω. The resistor in parallel with the bulb would be about 36Ω. I might make a strip or panel for the dummy lights, or I could just use ~ 36Ω resistor for the L terminal of the alternator.
I located some short clevis yokes for the pedal linkages. The larger one for the brake went on without issue. The smaller one has several issues. It’s not as short as I thought it would be. It would not go on, I had to run a tap through the threads. After getting it on the clutch shaft, I found the gap was too narrow. I ground it to fit, and then the pin wouldn’t fit. Drilled that out, attached the pedal arm and gave it a try. It was still binding and I bent the shaft. That was the shaft that I had threaded before finding the cylinder leaky, so I still had the new shaft from the new cylinder. I cut it to length and cut some threads on it, got everything in place. Then I was ready to put the pedals on. I like the brake and clutch pedal height, still need to lower the gas pedal.
I did some measuring of the cab to see if something was off. The drivers door wasn’t shutting right, there was a nasty dent on the roof. After much effort measuring I decided to brute force the door. I used a 2x4 between the door and the opening and persuaded it to behave.