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Originally Posted by dsraven
I highly suggest cross bracing and some dimensional cross checks to make sure you restart with something close to "square", just to make sure stuff fits together at the end of it all.
some guys have used a stell wheel barrow tub for a firewall bump, if you wanna do a sculpted bump rather than a more square bump behind the engine. if going totally flat on the firewall I suggest 16ga for added strength with some ribs on the back side at kep spots, like where pedals hand (if doing hanging pedals and a firewall brake booster). a local fab shop could likely bend you up something to match your angles. shoot some weld through primer on the edges where the metal contact ponts will be so it won't be bare metal on bare metal where rust can form. then tack it up like you want, or simply use some cleco's to hold it in place until your welded can come and weld it all in. cleco's are the best little holding tool for guys who work alone. magnets can also be a big help to hold stuff while you jiggle parts around to fit correctly.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
it would possibly be a benefit to place the cab over the frame with the driveline in place where it will sit when done. then you have a good idea if you need a firewall set back or a floor bump to clear the trans, etc etc. unless you already know those figures.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
great progress. good to see you are going to fix it right. will you but weld the top part to the bottom part or do an overlap below the bend? something different?
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I was contemplating doing some bracing as things are looking like I need to cut out more and more.
Any suggestions on how and WHERE to run the bracing so I have access to everything while still keeping things stable?
What materials do I use?
Do I run full beads when welding in bracing? Or are a tacks good enough?
I am getting to the point that I am uncomfortable removing any more panels due to stability. but I have access to everything right now so I'm also reluctant to start adding patch panels back in when I keep finding more work that needs to be done.
I am trying to avoid the ol "horse before the cart" while insuring my cab doesn't fall to pieces.
I have 16 gauge sheet that I will be using for the firewall. I wont be putting any contours in it. There will be no need for a recess in the firewall either.
I have thought about running some square tube behind the firewall, from kick panel to kick panel, around the midpoint down the firewall. Then drilled a few holes in the firewall and spot welding the firewall to that (for support and stability), using Clecos to sucking everything in tight while welding. but that would disrupt the smoothness of using one continuous piece of sheet. this could also, introducing more room for me to make mistakes while welding in a high visibility area (smack dead in the middle of the fire wall)
Any thoughts on doing something like that?
I got a few cans of weld through that I bought in anticipation of needing it but I gave up on the cab before ever using it. Now that I am trying again, I will be sure to put it to use.
What about a good, easily obtainable, epoxy primer that is in a rattle can so I can spray metal I have prepped and what to protect? right now, everything I clean up and bang out remains bare, and I can see it oxidizing quickly.
If you were asking if I will butt weld Or lap weld the firewall sheet to what's left of the upper cab area, I plan on BUTT WELDING it. I will Try to Cleco it to the lip that is there first so I can mark and slowly trim it down to proper size. Then I will try the ol "cut and butt" starting at the middle of the panel working my way out from the middle.
This is all theory of course. I have a feeling I am going to be ****ed by the thin metal that is left on the cab.
This will be my last chance to get it right. After this, there will be no metal left below the body line/roll of the upper cab to firewall transition.
If you were asking about the transition between the toe board and the firewall, well that's a good question.
Just like everything else, the toe board was a **** install. Gaps, 3 stacks of metal, piratically glues together. So I have cut that out too.
So what I was thinking of doing is hanging thing firewall first, then using some heavier gauge sheet metal (10-11 GA) and lay that in place of the toe board. Where ever the firewall meats the toe board, I would weld in at that transition. But I would have to ensure that the lower straight edge of the firewall is perfectly parallel to the floor plane of the cab to ensure a visually straight tow/firewall transition.
I don't know if I can manage that.