View Single Post
Old 08-14-2023, 03:04 PM   #1
Rich72C10
Mr. Cheyenne

 
Rich72C10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Kyle, Texas
Posts: 1,644
Smile Rebuilding / Installing Hinge Pillar to Fender Seal

Whenever my truck was worked on, at least two PO's before me, they left off the Hinge Pillar to Fender seals. This annoys me to no end. Some time back I got a pair from a forum member but they needed to be rebuilt. I didn't move forward because of the pain to get the fenders off! So to help motivate me I have started to rebuild them by getting a kit from GMC Pauls.

In case a reader is wondering, the metal brackets required for the seals are not reproduced - either you need to source used ones (like I did) or come up with a way to make them. Also, the sheet metal screws and spacers (shoulder washers) aren't listed on any of our truck part sites. The screws are somewhat easier to get but the right size spacers (shoulder washers) are a bit harder to substitute. The point of the spacers (shoulder washers) is to keep it from tearing the hole of the seal as you are tightening the hex screws down (or at least that is my guess). They aren't just a washers, the "shoulder" of the washer goes inside of the seal hole, basically the hex screw doesn't touch the seal at all. The shoulder can't be to deep or the seal won't fit against the cowl. Oh, it appears the reproduced seal holes from venders are slightly to small - so you'll need a hollow hole punch to enlarge them (somewhere around 7mm to 8mm punch). Though if you don't use spacers, then the hole is ample of size for the Hex head is 5/16 #10x1/2 sheet metal screws. Post #20 shows some pictures of the original screw/spacer and the ones I found for replacements.

I wouldn't say the fulfillment is 100%. The rubber cups seem a little lighter duty and the long bits are spongy feeling, where as the original long bits seems like some kind of heavy fiber-ish material.

1. Remove old seals from bracket, sand, and paint bracket.
2. Line up rubber cups on the long spongy bit and use a heavy stapler (I used 3/8 heavy staples).
3. Line up long bit spongy bit on bracket and drill a hole from bracket into long bit spongy bit.
4. Get the supplied super heavy staples from kit and start them through the long spongy bit into the bracket
5. Hammer them in!
6. Flip over the bracket and use whatever to push the stable legs over (I used a punch).
7. Use leather hole punch to widen holes for spacers, it appears the repos holes are punch to small.

Now I need to repeat and do the other bracket. Then I need to figure out how to get the fenders off but that likely won't happen until cooler weather and I can drive to my brother's for help.

I am also looking for the "sleeves" (shoulder washers) that are called out in the diagram, which with this spongy stuff I think will be important to have. Also hope to find some good sheet metal screws. The Hex head is 5/16 and are confirmed all to be #10x1/2. I also believe they are black oxide.

I'll update this post/reply with progress :-)

Edit:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich72C10 View Post
Got a good match for screws and a so-so "spacer" off Ebay. The spacer is slightly bigger but it will work well enough.

Amazon Prime - pack of 25 for $9.16 shipped
18-8 Stainless Steel Sheet Metal Screw, Black Oxide Finish, Hex Washer Head, Hex Drive, Type AB, #10-16 Thread Size, 1/2" Length

Ebay - Pack of 10 for $10.81 shipped
Specbolt M6x18 Shoulder Washer Motorcycle Plastics Collar Bushings
Attached Images
     
__________________
Richard

'72 Chevy C10 Cheyenne *Super WHT/MED BRONZE/WHT
SBC 350 | TH350 | LWB | AC | Buddy Seats
Upgrades: Tilt | Front Sway Bar | Radio | Sliding Window | Bed Spare w/Lock
Bed Rails | Full LEDs | Courtesy Lights | Tachometer | Glovebox Lock & Light | Head Light Relays | *Upgraded Fully Super Trim

Last edited by Rich72C10; 08-21-2023 at 10:47 AM.
Rich72C10 is offline   Reply With Quote